Our trip will be bookended with long drives, as today and at the other end when we expect to exit the Binns Track at Alice Springs, about 1200kms south of Katherine. After breakfast, we went off to say goodbye to Maria and Brian, who’ll be leaving today for their trip south and will be gone by the time we get back from town.
Back at the CP, we got all the meat stored away in Andrew’s car fridge/freezer.
Andrew finished at the office and arrived at our CP about 1.00pm and we got all our gear packed into his Patrol, including clothing and sleeping bags. So we managed to get out of the CP about 2.15pm but we still had to return to the butcher! Andrew discovered he’d left his thongs at home and we’d forgotten Pizza base. So with the butcher and a quick call into Woolies again, we finally got on the road around 3.00pm.
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| We're off, leaving the Sterling and Gold Patrol behind |
Day 38—Thursday, 1st August (Renner Springs to OPSW 387kms)
A reasonably early start today after breakfast of cereal, tea and toast, I had my first shot at storing away the roof tent, when we found that we could leave our sleeping bags in the tent, a bonus. We won’t be covering quite as much ground today, with an easy 137kms on the Stuart Highway to Tennant Creek, then another 87kms to the Binns Track turn off at Bonney Well, when we'll bid farewell to the bitumen for a a couple of weeks.
We stopped in TC for some diesel and a visit to the local sports store for a sports bag to keep our clothing tidy. We also visited the IGA for a couple of last minute goodies, including a kettle for the gas ring burner and some fly spray!!
There’s a rest area at Bonney Well, where we had lunch under a great shade tree next to a table, which someone was just leaving as we pulled up.
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| An early look at the track |
So, the real adventure begins here with 163kms of gravel road to the Old Police Station Waterhole in the top left corner of the Davenport Range NP. I don’t believe I’ve travelled as far on gravel since Africa! A while ago!
Andrew's car is well set up for this adventure. One feature being the iPad on the dash, fitted out with Hema's Map App. Much more detail can be viewed as the track is travelled and the course plotted by satellite as can be seen below. The route travelled is shown in blue and can be used to back track.
Being a National Park, there were signs warning us to start collecting firewood as collection is not allowed in the Park. Arriving at the Park entrance, we had to pay our camp fees of $3.30 per person per day. We paid for two days. While we had been collecting firewood, we were passed by three couples towing off road camper trailers and caught up with them at the gate, they were to be our only neighbours for the first day. Later we learned that one couple were from Pakenham!
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| Paying camp fees, three trailers that passed us |
Day 39—Friday, 2nd August (Old Police Station Waterhole)
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| Old Police Station Waterhole |
The walk around the waterhole, which is part of the Frew River, now very dry, was no more than a couple of kilometres. There were lots of birds to keep us amused, the usual suspects, Willy Wagtails, Butcher Birds and Pee Wees and various Honeyeaters. But, also the locals, Whistling Kites, doing much whistling, parrots of several kinds. On the water, the usual squadron of cormorants, plus a great white Heron and a resident Pelican.
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| Helen keeping the Diary Up to Date |
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| Preparing |
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| Carving |
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| Enjoying |
Time to move on, although very tempting to stay a little longer. It's easy to forget, Andrew has to go back to work, so we're working his itinerary. Just as we were packing up, we had a visit from a couple of dogs, not dingoes, ferals, although there may have been some dingo in them. The pair were loping along the track towards our camp and on seeing us, were just as surprised as we were. They took off, running straight up a boulder and rock strewn hill, looking more like greyhounds now.
We’re headed for Mt Swan Homestead via Hatches Creek, where Wolfram was mined prior to WWI. The mine prospered during the war because Tungston is derived from Wolfram and was used in the manufacture of ammunition. The Pioneer mine is still here but was closed down in the 70's. The headgear still stands looking forlorn and rusty. This early section from OPSW through Hatches Creek, about 50kms, was very rough, with several rocky creek crossings. The track actually varied between this section and wide, smooth, double lane, wide enough for passing road trains.
Arriving at Mt Swan, we were greeted by Sonja Chalmers at the Homestead who said we should camp "by the creek". We had the campground to ourselves and soon got set up at the creek. Not that there was any water in the creek but the campground was “by the creek”. Since our driver/navigator has had such a long day, we’ll stay here a couple of nights. The homestead has a general store and fuel bowsers, both unleaded and diesel. This seems to service the local Aboriginal community as well as staff from surrounding homesteads. Maybe that should be homestead because the next door McDonald Downs seems to be rather large.
After getting well set up, we had a wander around, collecting firewood for the evening fire. Dinner tonight, Boerevors, vegetables and pasta.
We’re headed for Mt Swan Homestead via Hatches Creek, where Wolfram was mined prior to WWI. The mine prospered during the war because Tungston is derived from Wolfram and was used in the manufacture of ammunition. The Pioneer mine is still here but was closed down in the 70's. The headgear still stands looking forlorn and rusty. This early section from OPSW through Hatches Creek, about 50kms, was very rough, with several rocky creek crossings. The track actually varied between this section and wide, smooth, double lane, wide enough for passing road trains.
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| Rough section near Hatches Creek |
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| Wide enough for roadtrains to pass near Mt Swan. |
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| Setting up camp at Mt Swan Homestead |
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| Mt Swan campsite "down by the creek" |
Day 41—Sunday, 4th August (Mt Swan Station)
After breakfast, we wandered up to the homestead tp check out any goings on. A couple of young workers from McDonald Station had called in to buy some stores and were just finished when we arrived. We were all invited up to the “gallery” for a coffee. Turns out, the station runs a gallery, managed by Sonja, selling local Aboriginal art. I’m all over dot painting but the coffee was good.
We found out that it’s a long week-end in NT this week-end and there’s a rodeo on at Harts Range, about 70kms further down the track, on the Plenty Highway. So, after the coffee, we decided to check out the amateur bull riding and anything else that’s going on for the day. By the time we got there though, the bull riding was all there was and the stands were packed. Helen managed to squeeze into a seat but Andrew and I had to make do with standing room. None of the amateurs made the eight second qualification but it was great fun. Andrew got the GoPro camera set up and took a lot of footage and seemed very pleased with the results.
Bearing in mind we had to get back to camp and get the fire going and not wanting to be driving in the dusk, we had to leave before any results or re-rides happened. Andrew excelled again with a roast pork in the camp oven along with vegetables.
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| Getting ready to ride |
Day 42—Monday, 5th August (Mt Swan Station to Gem Tree 205kms)
After breakfast and packing up, we drove up to the Homestead and bought some fuel, not a lot at $2.15, just enough to get to our next camp at Gem Tree. Fueling was done by Charlie Chalmers and we were not sure whether Charlie and Sonja were siblings or partners!
This morning we made a couple of local visits, firstly at Tower Rock, then a bit of a back track to run past Dnieper HS to have a look at Box Hole Meteorite Crater. Tower Hill was a favourite picnic spot for the Chalmers family and in fact, Charlie’s parents are buried here in a very well built little cemetery. The surrounding landscape reminds of Hanging Rock or in Africa, the Matopos Park where Cecil Rhodes is buried.
At Dnieper HS, there’s a separate track following the Homestead fence line, tracking very close to the Homestead. If Charlie hadn’t told us about it, we would probably have blundered into the back yard! About a kilometer down the track, through a couple of gates, duck under a barbed wire fence and here’s this big hole in the ground! To be fair, we figured the barbed wire fence was to stop people driving into the crater. After wandering about for half an hour we back tracked to the “highway” and carried on.
Now we were really back tracking, following the same track as yesterday, heading south for the Plenty Highway and Harts Range. Harts Range is of course in the Harts Range hills. We’d spent some time on our visits this morning and lunch was calling so before we reached the Plenty, we stopped at the Plenty River (dry) for a cuppa and cold lamb sandwiches.
The Plenty Highway is a gravel two lane highway and only when you come to floodways, do you have to slow down. As a bonus, the last ten or fifteen kilometers to Gem Tree are sealed, about a lane and a half, so you do have to move over when passing. Gem Tree is a favourite fossicking gemstone area any lies east of the Stuart Highway by 70kms. Then it’s only another 70kms south to Alice Springs, so easily accessible for caravanners. The big attraction for us, was a hot shower and refilling our water bottles.
Day 43—Tuesday, 6th August (Gem Tree to Old Ambalindum HS 104kms)
Probably our shortest drive on the whole trip, a short back track on the sealed road to get back on the Binns Track. By now, we’re into the East MacDonnell Ranges and the scenery is spectacular.
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| Back on the Track, heading towards the East MacDonnell Ranges |
We were set up by lunch time on a nice grassy site. I find one of the irony’s of our travels has been the supply of water! When we arrived here, the manager told us there was plenty and better than town water. They obviously used plenty of water around the camping and cabins which, along with the shade trees, was very attractive. Power here is provided by a diesel generator which we were told, runs until 10pm then back on at 6.00am, didn't bother us, we took an unpowered site.
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| Relaxing at Old Ambalindum |
Arltunga covered an area of about 120 square kiometers and was the first “significant” European settlement in Central Australia, leading to the establishment of a town at Alice Springs. A much smaller area is preserved in the Historical Park and we had a good wander around the Government Works where assaying was carried out but also housed a post office, blacksmith and battery.
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| Ruins of the Blacksmiths at Arltunga |
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| An old Gold Stamp |
Day 44—Wednesday, 7th August (Old Ambalindum to Trephena Gorge 148kms)
Andrew and Dad decided it was time for a bacon and egg breakfast. Helen just held her nose and tried not to look. After breakfast and tidying up plus storing the roof tent, we set off again, this time heading for the Ross River Resort then on to Trephena Gorge. We used the horse dam paddock shortcut again and tracked back past the Altunga Pub then on to the Ross Highway, which heads west back into Alice Springs. |
| Binns Track meets the Ross Highway |
The Resort was a bit of a disappointment, to me anyway and seemed a bit run down. We had a cup of tea, $3.00 per plastic cup and self serve. Sat outside in some shade. We watched some kids, obviously on a school camp, having lots of fun with races. Andrew bought another 30 litres of diesel at $2.30 per and only 70kms from Alice. We obviously won’t get any cheaper fuel until we get to Alice Springs next Saturday and the whole place just smelled of price gouging.
The Trephina Gorge Nature Park was a lot more appealing and was approached heading west towards Alice Springs by about 12kms then another 4kms on gravel. Again very reachable with a caravan, as we discovered on arrival, there were half a dozen or more. It was lunch time by then so we parked the car and found a shady table and lunched again on cold lamb sandwiches. That roast went a long way but I think we finished it off today.
Like all the Parks we’ve visited in NT, the camping fee was $3.30 per person for a 24hr stay. Water and toilets provided but no power and generators not allowed. Of course we’re not staying so we finished off our lunch and took a walk through the gorge.
The gorge is on Trephina Creek, dry at the moment but you could tell that in “the wet” it would make raging torrent of a river. We walked the so called bottom walk along the creek bed but there was also another more strenuous walk above the creek onto the escarpment. Luckily we’d run out of time again always being aware of getting back to camp before dark.
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| The dry bed of Trephina Creek and the Gorge walls |
Unfortunately, we missed another good sounding visit to N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park. Well that’ll be on the list for next time! We did make time on the way back to visit a 300 year old Ghost Gum and for another visit to Altunga, entering the south end of the Park and visiting parts we’d missed yesterday. Home again via the horse dam paddock and found we had company. We’ll be really sorry to leave Ambalindum but tomorrow we must.
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| Estimated to be three hundred years old! |
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| Back at Old Ambulindum, Andrew's Swag |
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| The Old Homestead |
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| Packing Up |
Day 45—Thursday, 8th August (Old Ambalindum to Ruby Gap 148kms)
Not a long drive today but a challenging one, the last 45kms into the Park taking two hours, over serious 4WD tracks. We set off after breakfast and packing up our camp, our neighbours beating us by about an hour, maybe they’re not on holiday, like we are! This time, instead of the short cut, we took the main track in a big loop through Claraville HS which we thought might be the new homestead.
Passing through Arltunga again, we turned at the crossroads to visit the cemetery, finding there were two off. The first one quite small, with only two or three headstones, one quite unusual in that it was surrounded by a metre high stone wall!
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| James Woodford's Last Resting Place |
Returning to the crossroads, we turned south until we found the Ruby Gap turn off which took us east again on the Ross Highway. The highway soon disappeared! The next forty odd kilometers was the most challenging for Andrew so far. We’d been driving on reduced tyre pressures but now really reduced to about 25psi.
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| On a good section |
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| On a not so good section |
After arriving at the Park entrance, there was a five kilometer stretch along the Hale River where you could camp anywhere. We didn’t find many other campers and we drove as far as we could and found a flat sandy campsite which we ended up using the winch to get the Patrol over a sand bank. Setting up camp is getting to be a breeze by now, just as we get to the end of the trip!
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| On the Hale River |
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| Getting onto our campsite with a little help! |
Happily, they milled around for a bit then retreated back the way they’d come. Later, another three vehicles turned up but went further up the creek and camped in the creek bed. So we were never all that alone. Unlike other parks, there are no facilities here, no water, no long drops, so when you walk out to the toilet with the shovel on your shoulder you need a bit of loneliness.
In 1886, an explorer called David Lindsay found what he thought were rubies in the bed of the Hale River and caused the first mining rush in Central Australia. The rush petered out when it was discovered the rubies were in fact worthless garnets. Then gold was found at Arltunga so the miners moved there. We soon had a good camp fire going and cooked up a delicious rack of lamb with all the trimmings. How long has this camp oven stuff been going on?
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| Salute to absent friends, wish you were here. |
This morning was declared another bacon and eggs morning! About the only thing to do here, apart from relaxing around the camp site is walk. As the information sheet, picked up at the entrance says, there are no marked trails. The walk from our camp to Annie Gorge is a 4kms return trip of about two hours. Mainly along the dry riverbed with a cross country shortcut at a big bend in the river. We found the river not quite as dry as at first assumed, with regular pools along the way. Not an easy walk, with some climbing over smooth boulders and rocks and the shortcut was tricky and rock strewn too. The difficulties were soon forgotten as at each bend in the river, a new breathtaking scene presented. As we walked in the riverbed, the pools became stretches of water until, reaching Glen Annie Gorge we found we could go no further as the water was now wall to wall in the gorge. So back we went, enjoying every minute of it. On the return trip, we spotted a Goanna and took his photo.
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| Early morning at our campsite on the Hale Rver |
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| And we had a night visitor |
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| On our walk to Glen Annie Gorge |
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| On our walk to Glen Annie Gorge |
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| Clinging on for dear life |
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| Wall to wall at Glen Annie Gorge |
So now it was relax time and do a bit of reading. I had picked up a book Andrew brought with him, Hell West and Crooked by Tom Cole and found I could hardly put it down. Sooner or later though, the fire was got going and dinner started, a beef curry with rice tonight, our last night. Tomorrow we hit the road seriously.
Day 47—Saturday, 10th August (Ruby Gap to Devils Marbles via Alice Springs 558kms)
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| Ready for the return trip |
All breakfasted and packed by 8.30am and ready for the return drive to Arltunga on the Ross Highway, another two hour drive for the relatively short distance. We stopped at the deserted Arltunga Pub for a breather and a drink, noticing that a couple of caravans were set up in the now not deserted caravan park. It makes some sense because the CP is right on the edge of the Historical Park but now that it’s closed, any facilities are now unavailable. Now we’re back on good gravel, with only a few kilometres to go to the Ross River Resort and the sealed road taking us into Alice Springs.
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| Back on the gravel "Highway" |
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| And now the real thing! |
We reached Alice Springs by 1.00pm and found a Repco store. Andrew had suggested that we borrow the rooftop tent for the rest of our trip, so that at any time we wanted to go off road and leave the caravan!! So a pair of roof bars were needed for our Patrol. We then slid into MacDonalds for lunch. Good to be backin civilisation! After lunch, Helen and I made a trip to Coles for a couple of things we’d need back at the caravan in Katherine, while Andrew found a filling station and fuelled up.
We have some serious long distances to travel now, hoping to arrive back in Katherine early enough for Andrew to continue on to Darwin. In the event that didn’t work but we shared the driving and made the best time at the best economy according to the trip computer.
Andrew took the first spell, being refreshed by a big lunch and took us as far as Ti-Tree when it was my turn. My leg took us to the campground at Devils Marbles, arriving at 6.15pm to find it chock a block. Maybe we should have kept going but we were all tired by now. We did find a bench that no one was using and squeezed up to it, hoping to use it to prepare something to eat. Now we found that the gas pipe connecting the gas bottle to the stove had developed a problem, no stove. Could have been worse, like the first night. Luckily, our thermos flask still had enough not quite boiling water for tea and we made sandwiches from left over rack of lamb. Tonight, our last night, we finally saw a satellite pass overhead but we wre in bed early.
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| Sun setting on The Marbles and a great adventure |
Since we had no gas service, we decided to leave early, just after 6.00am, probably annoying the hell out of our very near neighbours. We thought we might have breakfast at Tennant Creek, about 100kms up the Stuart. So it turned out, Andrew doing the driving, we were there early at the BP service station which is also meant to be a Red Rooster store. Too early, had to make do with a couple of sausage rolls out of the warming oven, yuk. The coffee was very good though and they very kindly filled our thermos. Meanwhile, Andrew put enough fuel in the tank to see us home then continued the drive as far as Elliott about 250kms further north. Here we paused for a cuppa and a snack from the depths of the car fridge and I continued the drive.
By now, we could tell that we’d not make Katherine with any time ti spare to change over the roof tent, so Andrew decided to spend the night with us at the caravan park and turn up at his Katherine office, instead of risking a late drive to Darwin.
So we duly arrived in Katherine, about 4.00pm, when nothing could keep Helen out of the laundry. Andrew got busy with dinner, spaghetti bolognese, while I busied myself, assembling the new roof bars and fittings. The two Patrols were parked next to the caravan and allowed the roof tent to be deployed so that Andrew could sleep upstairs, for the first time! Meanwhile, because I’d left my engineers ticket in Nyora, I was still struggling with the roof bars, eventually with success and we decided to do the change over after Andrew returned from the office.
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| Andrew cooking and Dad wrestling |
Andrew left for the office after an early breakfast, then Helen headed for the laundry again for more washing, including re-doing some that didn’t quite come clean the first time! While the washing was happening, I got the tent cleaned out and all the sleeping bags out to the washing line for a good airing. The washing does dry quickly in these parts and we had it all stored away before lunch.
After lunch, we went into town with a few specifics in mind. Our electric jug had started playing up so a replacement was soured at Target. I also had spotted a Mitre 10 store and decided to see if they had stock of a cordless drill and a hand riveter. The Microwave has been floating around in it’s cavity, since Mt Isa and this is the first opportunity since, for a decent hardware store. Well, they did have a drill, Bosch at $90.00 but I thought we could do better next door. Yep, Home Hardware, right next door. We ended up with a 3V cordless driver, for which I already had drill bits and the pop riveter for $60.00.
Fixing the microwave in place, meant that the fixing brackets had to be attached to the oven. This entailed drilling and pop-riveting them in just the right spot, so the the holes for the wood screws into the cabinet married up with holes in the cabinet. Cut a long story short, with the help of my apprentice, this was achieved with spectacular precision. Now Helen can relax and stop worriyng about finding the oven on the floor next time the van door is opened. Job done, all good. Last but not least, we went to the camping shop and bought a couple of travel straps, with the idea of rolling the sleeping bags up and stashing them behind the drivers seat in the Patrol. The centre seats in the Patrol can be folded forward to make storage space and the rolled bags will fit well. Andrew on the other hand has completely removed one centre seat, which makes a big difference.
Andrew arrived back at the park just after 6.00pm and we set to transferring the tent from roof to roof. Because I have bars, compared to Andrew’s roof rack, the tent will have to sit across the car and open on the side. We agreed the tent would open onto the off side. Only dinner interrupted our effort but we got it done easily, by parking the cars close together and just sliding it. Another job done and to celebrate, Andrew again slept upstairs, just across the roof instead of along the roof. I don’t think he noticed. Before bed, we had a good discussion about places to visit as we progress into WA and lots of notes taken.
Day 50—Tuesday, 13th August (Katherine 15kms bobtail)
Andrew had already left for the office while I was in the shower and he hopes to get finished early and make a start on the drive home, to Darwin. In the event, he didn’t get back until 5.00pm and after a few more bits a packing, was off by 5.30pm. We have had a grand experience and shall miss him. Oh, and Helen will have to do the cooking tonight.
So, we are now ready to set off in the morning, heading west into unknown territory and looking forward to it! Earlier, we’d been to town again to by a couple of last minute, camping type things and fill up the fuel tank. I’ve stopped mixing LPG since Mt Isa. At $1.60 or more, it just isn’t viable. So we’re on diesel only now but not getting used to the $1.70 plus in these parts and that’s in the main towns.
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