Mataranka to Edith Falls and Katherine

Day 31—Thursday, 25^th July (Mataranka to Edith Falls via Katherine 168kms)

We set off again heading for Katherine but carried on to Edith Falls, about a 60km drive north of Katherine, including 20km off the highway. This campsite in the Nitmiluk National Park is always very popular and no different today. We managed to find a site and paid our dues at the honestly box. I was certain that on our last visit, we’d paid at a kiosk. Not this time.

One reason for the popularity, is the $6.50 per head fees. And although there’s no power and being a National Park, no generators, there are great amenity blocks, with hot showers and flushing toilets and plenty of fresh filtered water. After getting set up, we went for a stroll around and soon found out what had happened to the kiosk of memory.

Late in 2011, Cyclone Grant hit the Top End, causing much damage, including an ore train derailment. The Edith Falls campground was not spared and a deluge of nearly 400mms tore through the area, flooding the park an damaging the kiosk beyond repair. The Falls, which empty into the Lower Pool, exit at the right via the Edith River. The flood waters must have cascaded into the pool, depositing a huge amount of rubble which has now formed an island at the front of the pool.

The Lower Pool with the huge bar created by Cyclone Grant

At the exit, there used to be a boardwalk, crossing the river and giving access to the loop walk. This was a two or three kilometre walk and climb up the escarpment and on to the upper pools. All gone and the loop walk closed, we hope not for ever though. Luckily, we have our photos from our last visit in 2009.

Day 32—Friday, 26^th July (Edith Falls)

We were able to take the walk at the other side of the campsite, up to the upper pool, which we enjoyed but gee I think it was steeper than last time or is that just age catching up.

The Upper Pools and Falls

Closed Loop Walk the Boardwalk washed away

Still a very pleasant spot though and we decided to stay a couple more nights as we pass the time until Andrew joins us from Darwin (better $13.00 a night than $40.00).  Making the stay even more pleasurable, we met a couple of ACC members, from Perth and were able to enjoy “happy hour” in company. Each site has a patch of lawn adjacent and our new mates had a large one so we met there each evening and got to know each other, very nice people and this is what the ACC is all about. We’d recognised each other as members, when I was wearing the club cap and we both were carrying ACC wheel covers.

Day 33—Saturday, 27^th July (Edith Falls to Pine Creek return 142kms bobtail)

After breakfast, we decided on a day trip up to Pine Creek, which we arrived at in time for a Coffee at Esmes. This we’d been advised, not to miss. Then a hour or so at the Railway Museum, another one. Rail is very much a part of the Territory’s history, as it is over many other parts of Australia. But the story here, seems to have been one of disappointment after disappointment with governments never able to fulfill the promise of connecting the two ends together until very recent times.

Railway Museum at Pine Creek

Time for lunch and we found one of the showiest places we'd seen for a while and of all places here in Pine Creek. Looking very new and posh, The Pine Creek Railway Resort, we decided to have lunch of home made pie and a bowl of chips. Our timing was so good, the pies were just coming out of the oven. All washed down with a great pot of English Breakfast.

The Railway Resort Pine Creek

A flash setting for Pie n Chips!

A drive around the township, showed that mining has very much taken over, the caravan park, closed to visitors was surrounded by many barrack style cabins. The occupiers all at work, even on Saturday and the only sign, their cars and utes drawn up in the car park, dozens of them. Gold mining we were told, with the workers shuttled out to site in the early morning and returned late afternoon or early evening.

We were disappointed to find the Pine Creek Museum closed but took a drive up to the town lookout and found the towns water supply looking good. The lake was the open cut site of the Enterprise Pit. In 1993, the pit was filled, by diverting Pine Creek. It took fourteen months to fill and holds 6800 megalitres. After a few photos, we headed back to the highway and our campsite at Edith Falls, arriving just in time for happy hour with Maria and Brian.

Pine Creek Water Supply

Day 34—Sunday, 28^th July (Edith Falls to Katherine 68kms)

Time to backtrack into Katherine, so we took a short walk up the hill, to find Telstra and made a phone call to Shady Lane CP on the Gorge Road and booked a site for two nights to begin with. We may have to extend as we will leave the van and the Patrol in Katherine while we go off and explore The Binns Track with Andrew.

We were given an easy reverse in site in a park that lives up to it’s name, the shade being provided by rows and rows of tall palm trees. Didn’t take long for Helen to find the laundry while I got set up. Although only a short drive this morning, we were told we could enter as soon as we arrived, in the event we got there about 11.00am. After the washing was taken care of, nothing else but to relax and catch up with phone calls to Robert, Sarah and Andrew. Andrew expects to be here late tomorrow afternoon.

Day 35—Monday, 29^th July (Katherine 15kms bobtail)

After a couple of phone calls to other parks, we booked here for a fortnight longer. Since we will need to be on power, for the fridge, storage was not an option, so we’ve forked out for the site.

A drive into town after lunch as we wanted to buy some beer which is not available until 2.00pm! We had a wander round the Info Centre, picking up some info about the Binns Track and other places we will visit as we move on into WA.

The Binns track actually runs from Mt Dare in SA and ends near Timber Creek in the NT. We await Andrew’s arrival when we can make plans but we won’t be doing the whole track, only the section from Tennant Creek to Alice Springs, whiich will leave a 1200 kms trip back up to Katherine. Andrew arrived about 5.30pm and we were also joined by Maria and Brian who had departed Edith Falls this morning. They too are marking time as they wait for some friends stuck in Darwin, with car trouble.

After happy hour and then dinner, we got the maps and calculators out and set about arranging our trip which will begin on Wednesday after lunch (Andrew is still working). We have a longish drive from Katherine to Renner Springs, about 500kms and will camp there for the night. Travelling in Andrew’s Patrol, Mum and Dad get to use the roof top tent and we might have to road test that tomorrow night, in case I can’t make it up the ladder!

Home for the next ten days!

Day 36—Tuesday, 30^th July (Katherine 15kms bobtail)

Today, while Andrew is at work in the Katherine office, our only chore is to phone the Pub at Renner Springs and book a site which will be powered as we expect to arrive late. Other bookings to make are at the Mt Swan and Old Ambalindum Homesteads. Later in the day, another trip into Katherine for some supplies agreed on last night and a final meeting tonight to make a final list of needs, which we can shop for in Katherine in the morning while Andrew finishes at the office. At this point, almost up to date  with our travels, we head out without computers and as Telstra can't keep up with us, mobile reception will be limited to points on the Stuart Highway. So we'll be "off line" for the almost two weeks of our bush travels. Hopefully there will be lots to tell when we return.

On site at Shady Lane