Katherine to Kununurra

Day 51—Wednesday, 14th August (Katherine to Mathison Rest 105kms)

Not a big drive today due to a delayed start. Not that we were late leaving the park, just that a last minute purchase was needed. We had swapped inverters with Andrew. His was too  big at 1000W, ours was on the low side at 150W. So, we now needed a cable, can’t stick a 1000W into the lighter socket. We tried Repco, without luck and they passed us along to NT Spares, same result but they suggested a Auto Electrical mob called Hobbitt out in the industrial area.

They made us a 2M cable with well soldered lugs on one end and ditto crocodile clips on the other. Previous to all this, I’d decided on a haircut a short B and S!

So, after a late get away we decided to camp at the Mathison Rest Area instead of pushing on to Sullivan Campground in the Gregory National Park, another 72kms. Even though it was quite early, the Area was well attended and of course, we weren’t the last to arrive.

Camped at the Mathison Rest Area

Day 52—Thursday, 15th August (Mathison to Timber Creek 154kms)

Well, we were not the last to arrive here last night and we certainly were not the first to leave! They started moving out at daybreak, don’t understand the hurry. We finally hit the road after a leisurely breakfast, making a quick inspection stop at Sullivan Campground. Our decision to stop early yesterday was justified because another hour on the road to get here, would have seen us without a camp site in this quite small campground.

Next stop was at the Victoria River Roadhouse where we had a look around and a walk down to the river where the old bridge is slowly dying of disuse, alongside the new high level bridge. Just after we arrived, a tour bus arrived and disgorged its load of passengers who made a beeline for the amenities block, while the driver and his off sider set up afternoon tea on a grassy strip of garden. We were fascinated to see a large paddock next to the roadhouse that had dozens of round hay bales lying about, waiting to be collected.

Setting off again, we pulled over at a car park, set up below an escarpment, where we climbed up for a look at the view. The walk of 1.5km was classed as moderate but we decided to take a shorter walk to a lookout which was about halfway along. In the end, the view over the Victoria River was worth it and satisfied us. We found a bench provided and had a rest and a drink of water while we enjoyed the view.

An hour later we rolled into Timber creek and booked into the Caravan Park, initially just the one night but later decided on a second night. Lunch was taken and a wander around the town. This didn’t take long but of interest, we found that there’s now a second CP in town and it looked like we’d picked the wrong one, very dusty and ungreen. Too late now we found almost next door, the new park on beautiful green grassy sites, although both parks backed onto the Creek.

At 5.00pm, our park had a Kite and Croc feeding display when we learned about the Kites and watched them swoop to pick up food thrown by the lady doing the show. By the time we got down to the Creek, which was in heavy shade anyway, it was almost too dark for photography. They were freshies!

About now, we decided on a second night as we fancied taking a sunset river cruise tomorrow, which we had to put our name down for. The cruise only operates with a minimum of eight persons, so we were left hoping.

Day 53—Friday, 16th August (Timber Creek)

We planned to fill our day, while waiting for news on the river cruise, by taking a drive out to Bullita Out Station in the Gregory NP. This meant a 120kms round trip, 100kms on gravel, so I could practice all I’d learned from Andrew on “off road” driving. In the event, the gravel section wasn’t all that bad.

On the way to Bullita Out Station

The Out Station was originally a Durack property and had been acquired by The National Parks and formed part of Gregory National Park, with an onsite ranger.

The Homestead and out buildings are still in very good condition with lots of information boards telling the story of it’s life and those who lived in it. It’s hard to imagine the conditions they lived in and not that long ago too.

This Homestead was built in 1960, replacing a couple of iron “igloos”, while an even earlier Homestead had been destroyed by fire. Bullita was run as an Out Station of Humbert River Station until sold in 1967 to Happy and Lyn Berlowitz. They lived there until 1977 when the property was covered by floodwaters and Lyn was lucky to survive after being swept away while trying to rescue her dog’s five week old puppies.

Bullita OS under the Big Boab

Durack was here!

Next we moved over to the campsite where we found at least two groups of campers set up. We found a shady spot and enjoyed a cuppa. Leaving the Patrol at the campsite, we took the walk down to the river crossing. The East Baines River crossing was part of an early stock route.

East Baines River crossing

On the way back, we met up with the Ranger, who told us about a Fish Eagle nest site, on the opposite side of the river at the campground. We had an enjoyable twenty minutes spotting the nest and watching the Eagle on gaurd. We also spotted a chick which the Ranger has said was an only chick.

There's an eagle there, I promise!

Returning to the homestead, we set up our chairs in the shade of one of the outbuildings and enjoyed our lunch.

Arriving back in Timber Creek we were told there were no others interested in the cruise and eventually received an SMS that there wouldn’t be a cruise that afternoon. Very disappointing. We went for another drive out to Policemans Point on the river and took a few more photos.

The Victoria River at Policemans Point

Day 54—Saturday, 17th August (Timber Creek to Lake Argyle 232Kms)

After breakfast, I took one of our gas bottles to the store for a re-fill which was done while I watched. There were two options for fuel, the store and the new Caravan Park/IGA complex next door, none of which took shopper dockets but the IGA store was ten cents cheaper! So guess where Jock filled up?

About 15kms out of town, we turned off to visit the Gregory Tree which included just 3.5kms of gravel. This little section of gravel made up for the highway conditions we’d enjoyed yesterday on the Bullita track. Thankfully I’d had all my fillings checked before leaving Nyora! The tree which is protected and fenced off bears an inscription “July 2nd, 1865” which was when the explorer Augustus Gregory had made a base camp here.

The Gregory Tree with it's 1856 inscription

After a stop at a rest area for lunch we passed through the Quarantine Station on the border and moved into WA, putting watches and camera timers back an hour and a half to WA time.

Soon we were turning off the Victoria Highway for the 35kms drive to the Lake, an easy drive on a narrow but sealed road. Checked in for a two night stay and were soon set up on  a very nice shady, grassed site. While checking in, we booked a Lake Argyle sunset cruise for tomorrow. No problems with numbers here, our trip is assured.

A shady grassed sit at Lake Argyle

Day 55—Sunday, 18th August (Lake Argyle)

After breakfast, a short drive took us to the Durack Argyle Homestead Museum which  was moved stone by stone from its original site before the Argyle dam wall caused the area to flood permanently. I was reminded very much of early colonial buildings in Africa, vast thick walls, wide verandahs all around, keeping the house cool on the hottest day. We had a great chat with the guide, a lady from Queensland who was very interesting to listen to and obviously new the story of the site. Along with her husband, who did “all the hard work” and received a wage, they were provided with a free caravan site for the season. The season being about six months, not a bad way to get away for the winter months on the east coast.

Rear view of the Homestead showing the thick stone walls

A breezeway through passage back to front of house

After lunch, we arrived early at the reception centre and watched a DVD on the construction of the dam, which was all very reminiscent of the building of the Kariba Dam in Rhodesia. They even had an operation Noah here as in Kariba, rescuing wildlife trapped by the rising waters. We were then collected in a coach and taken down to the Lake for our cruise.

Our cruise catamaran

The cruise was a real highlight, with commentary by a very knowledgeable skipper, Graeme. The double hulled catamaran seated about a hundred but today we were about fifty or sixty, plenty of room to move around. After cruising for a while, we pulled into a quiet bay and afternoon tea and cake was served. Meanwhile, Graeme was pointing out highlights and pulling over when he spotted a croc on the bank or Euros (not wallabies). We even stopped for fish feeding, mainly catfish which have been renamed some fancy name because the market for  seafood doesn’t like “catfish”.

Approaching "The Heads" into the lake

Lake Argyle Freshwater Crocodile

At one spot in the middle of the lake, the boat was stopped and maybe half the passengers took the plunge and went for a swim. Then, the highlight of highlights a stop to watch the sunset while the bar was opened and beer and wine was served along with huge cheese and biscuit platters. What a great day.

Back at the Resort, we enjoyed our previously booked roast dinner to  the accompaniment of the resident entertainer, a quite youthful lad with a guitar and a wide range of soft rock and country music.

Day 56—Monday, 19th August (Lake Argyle to Kununurra 72kms)

In the morning, we made an early visit to the picnic area beneath the dam wall and got a close up of the hydro power plant. Well the hydro "outfall" anyway.

Single lane across the dam wall

The Hydro outlets

View of the wall from the lookout

There was also a high lookout point which gives an incredible look at the wall. Back to camp for breakfast and pack up, then off to Kununurra, quite a short drive and check in to the Hidden Valley Caravan Park. After lunch, a drive into town for supplies at the local Coles. We’d also debated buying some swimming gear, such is the heat up here, Helen has even discarded her bed socks! We bought the swimmers but getting them wet is something else.

Day 57—Tuesday, 20th August (Kununurra)

We seem to be in a “permanents” section of the park and if the whistling of the Kites and the cooing of the various doves didn’t wake you, the workers getting off to work sure did.

After breakfast, we headed into town but too early for the Information Centre, so we drove out to the Kelly’s Lookout where a great view of the township spread out below. The approach was quite rocky and rough, not something you’d want to do in semi darkness which we’d been encouraged to do, to watch the sunset.

Kurunurra from Kelly's Lookout

Next, was a trip out to Zebra Rock Gallery on the river bank, about twenty kilometers out of town. The trip took us over the Diversion Dam which is undergoing repairs with traffic restricted to single lane, controlled by traffic lights. The Zebra Rock is mined here and cut and polished. It was displayed as all sorts of goods from small pendants to wine bottle holders. As the name implies, the rock is striped and looks very nice when polished. In the cafe, we had a delicious Devonshire Tea.

Entry to the Gallery, was by gold coin donation and included fish food, so you could stroll down to the river and feed the fish. Same catfish and Archer Fish but we also spotted a couple of Turtles. We were aware that caravan storage was available here and were advised that the van could be parked in the rows between the mango trees in the plantation. On the way back to town, we stopped for a photo at yet another Boab Prison Tree.

Back in town, we went for a drive out to the Ivanhoe Crossing which we’d heard had been permanently closed to traffic, because of consistently high water levels in recent times. On the way back, a visit to the Sandalwood Factory then a stop in at the Ivanhoe Cafe for a Mango Smoothy.

Ivanhoe Crossing

We’d discovered that the Hidden Valley Caravan arkP where we’re staying, also offered storage so we decided to leave the van here while we go off in the morning for some tenting. Meanwhile we got the Patrol re-arranged for the trip, making a compartment in the drawer available as a pantry.