Mataranka to Edith Falls and Katherine

Day 31—Thursday, 25^th July (Mataranka to Edith Falls via Katherine 168kms)

We set off again heading for Katherine but carried on to Edith Falls, about a 60km drive north of Katherine, including 20km off the highway. This campsite in the Nitmiluk National Park is always very popular and no different today. We managed to find a site and paid our dues at the honestly box. I was certain that on our last visit, we’d paid at a kiosk. Not this time.

One reason for the popularity, is the $6.50 per head fees. And although there’s no power and being a National Park, no generators, there are great amenity blocks, with hot showers and flushing toilets and plenty of fresh filtered water. After getting set up, we went for a stroll around and soon found out what had happened to the kiosk of memory.

Late in 2011, Cyclone Grant hit the Top End, causing much damage, including an ore train derailment. The Edith Falls campground was not spared and a deluge of nearly 400mms tore through the area, flooding the park an damaging the kiosk beyond repair. The Falls, which empty into the Lower Pool, exit at the right via the Edith River. The flood waters must have cascaded into the pool, depositing a huge amount of rubble which has now formed an island at the front of the pool.

The Lower Pool with the huge bar created by Cyclone Grant

At the exit, there used to be a boardwalk, crossing the river and giving access to the loop walk. This was a two or three kilometre walk and climb up the escarpment and on to the upper pools. All gone and the loop walk closed, we hope not for ever though. Luckily, we have our photos from our last visit in 2009.

Day 32—Friday, 26^th July (Edith Falls)

We were able to take the walk at the other side of the campsite, up to the upper pool, which we enjoyed but gee I think it was steeper than last time or is that just age catching up.

The Upper Pools and Falls

Closed Loop Walk the Boardwalk washed away

Still a very pleasant spot though and we decided to stay a couple more nights as we pass the time until Andrew joins us from Darwin (better $13.00 a night than $40.00).  Making the stay even more pleasurable, we met a couple of ACC members, from Perth and were able to enjoy “happy hour” in company. Each site has a patch of lawn adjacent and our new mates had a large one so we met there each evening and got to know each other, very nice people and this is what the ACC is all about. We’d recognised each other as members, when I was wearing the club cap and we both were carrying ACC wheel covers.

Day 33—Saturday, 27^th July (Edith Falls to Pine Creek return 142kms bobtail)

After breakfast, we decided on a day trip up to Pine Creek, which we arrived at in time for a Coffee at Esmes. This we’d been advised, not to miss. Then a hour or so at the Railway Museum, another one. Rail is very much a part of the Territory’s history, as it is over many other parts of Australia. But the story here, seems to have been one of disappointment after disappointment with governments never able to fulfill the promise of connecting the two ends together until very recent times.

Railway Museum at Pine Creek

Time for lunch and we found one of the showiest places we'd seen for a while and of all places here in Pine Creek. Looking very new and posh, The Pine Creek Railway Resort, we decided to have lunch of home made pie and a bowl of chips. Our timing was so good, the pies were just coming out of the oven. All washed down with a great pot of English Breakfast.

The Railway Resort Pine Creek

A flash setting for Pie n Chips!

A drive around the township, showed that mining has very much taken over, the caravan park, closed to visitors was surrounded by many barrack style cabins. The occupiers all at work, even on Saturday and the only sign, their cars and utes drawn up in the car park, dozens of them. Gold mining we were told, with the workers shuttled out to site in the early morning and returned late afternoon or early evening.

We were disappointed to find the Pine Creek Museum closed but took a drive up to the town lookout and found the towns water supply looking good. The lake was the open cut site of the Enterprise Pit. In 1993, the pit was filled, by diverting Pine Creek. It took fourteen months to fill and holds 6800 megalitres. After a few photos, we headed back to the highway and our campsite at Edith Falls, arriving just in time for happy hour with Maria and Brian.

Pine Creek Water Supply

Day 34—Sunday, 28^th July (Edith Falls to Katherine 68kms)

Time to backtrack into Katherine, so we took a short walk up the hill, to find Telstra and made a phone call to Shady Lane CP on the Gorge Road and booked a site for two nights to begin with. We may have to extend as we will leave the van and the Patrol in Katherine while we go off and explore The Binns Track with Andrew.

We were given an easy reverse in site in a park that lives up to it’s name, the shade being provided by rows and rows of tall palm trees. Didn’t take long for Helen to find the laundry while I got set up. Although only a short drive this morning, we were told we could enter as soon as we arrived, in the event we got there about 11.00am. After the washing was taken care of, nothing else but to relax and catch up with phone calls to Robert, Sarah and Andrew. Andrew expects to be here late tomorrow afternoon.

Day 35—Monday, 29^th July (Katherine 15kms bobtail)

After a couple of phone calls to other parks, we booked here for a fortnight longer. Since we will need to be on power, for the fridge, storage was not an option, so we’ve forked out for the site.

A drive into town after lunch as we wanted to buy some beer which is not available until 2.00pm! We had a wander round the Info Centre, picking up some info about the Binns Track and other places we will visit as we move on into WA.

The Binns track actually runs from Mt Dare in SA and ends near Timber Creek in the NT. We await Andrew’s arrival when we can make plans but we won’t be doing the whole track, only the section from Tennant Creek to Alice Springs, whiich will leave a 1200 kms trip back up to Katherine. Andrew arrived about 5.30pm and we were also joined by Maria and Brian who had departed Edith Falls this morning. They too are marking time as they wait for some friends stuck in Darwin, with car trouble.

After happy hour and then dinner, we got the maps and calculators out and set about arranging our trip which will begin on Wednesday after lunch (Andrew is still working). We have a longish drive from Katherine to Renner Springs, about 500kms and will camp there for the night. Travelling in Andrew’s Patrol, Mum and Dad get to use the roof top tent and we might have to road test that tomorrow night, in case I can’t make it up the ladder!

Home for the next ten days!

Day 36—Tuesday, 30^th July (Katherine 15kms bobtail)

Today, while Andrew is at work in the Katherine office, our only chore is to phone the Pub at Renner Springs and book a site which will be powered as we expect to arrive late. Other bookings to make are at the Mt Swan and Old Ambalindum Homesteads. Later in the day, another trip into Katherine for some supplies agreed on last night and a final meeting tonight to make a final list of needs, which we can shop for in Katherine in the morning while Andrew finishes at the office. At this point, almost up to date  with our travels, we head out without computers and as Telstra can't keep up with us, mobile reception will be limited to points on the Stuart Highway. So we'll be "off line" for the almost two weeks of our bush travels. Hopefully there will be lots to tell when we return.

On site at Shady Lane

Cape Crawford to Mataranka

Day 27—Sunday,21^st July (Cape Crawford to Daly Waters 300kms)

In the morning, we had to wait for others to move before we could hit the road. Happily this was no problem, given that we have not yet adopted the universal habit of tearing off at sparrow fart in case somebody gets there first and pinches the best spot?? We’re not in a hurry but everyone else seems to be.

On the road again

An easy drive but again on the narrow single strip, with occassional double lane “overtaking” sections. Only trouble is we never seemed to find traffic on these sections, more usually just after or just before so you go through the routine of slow down and move over. Just get the revs up again and here comes another passer!

You never meet these on a passing lane, so you just get off the road!

After a short stop at October Creek, we arrived at Daly Waters and the Stuart Highway about 1.00pm. We had decided to stop at the Hi-Way Inn Caravan Park, rather than the Daly Waters Pub, which is always full and so tightly packed, no awnings. The Hi-Way Inn sits on the intersection of the Stuart and Carpentaria Highways and can be very busy with roadtrains and caravaners pulling in for fuel but the CP is away behind all the activity and has a strip of grass sites with a barrier between so that they’re all reverse in. Despite a reasonably early arrival, again “pick a spot”, we found quite a few already settled in but we managed a great spot between two vans and under a huge shady Ficus tree. Soon we were all set up and soon found we weren’t the last. We knew we were back in civilisation when we tried tuning the telly (analogue only) and were happy to watch our second team beat Geelong. Our second team as you would guess, anyone playing Geelong. Unless it’s Collingwood but we heard they’d already been seen to by Gary Ablett and mates from Gold Coast. So what a great afternoon, especially since our Swannies took care of the Eagles.

After all the excitement, we drove the seven kilometers to the Daly Waters Pub and had a great Beef and Barra dinner with a bottle of wine to go with it. Great finish to the week-end

Dinner and entertainment at Daly Water Pub

Day 28—Monday, 22^nd July (Daly Waters 28kms bobtail)

The park emptied out pretty quickly this morning, leaving us to ourselves. Not much happens at Daly Waters except the comings and goings of travellers, mainly 

caravanners but with a fair mix of roadtrains since we’re at a major intersection, with the north-south Stuart and the east-west Carpentaria which services the mine mentioned earlier. First thing, we made use of the deserted laundry and a load of washing hung out.

Day two at Hi-Way Inn and all alone.

Next, we drove back to the Pub and had a wander around. Amazingly, the caravan park was as good as empty, not unusual for the time of morning. A local told us that between campers and visitors calling in for dinner and show, they average 300 vans a day. Definitely a one night stop.

We visited the souvenir shop run by last night’s entertainer “Chilli”. Then the museum, run by last night’s warm up entertainer. Then the art gallery.

By this time, the traffic was beginning to move into the caravan park. I say park but it’s more just a paddock an very dusty.

By midday the Pub CP is starting to fill up.

Back to our little bit of greenery at Hi-Way Inn, where we just relaxed, after bringing in the washing, until dinner time. Part of the relaxation, watching others move onto their site. I mean relaxing for the watchers! In the early evening, we were delighted to find a mob of about twenty grey kangaroos in the paddock behind us, just quietly grazing. Full moon tonight!

Day 29—Tuesday, 23^rd July (Daly Waters to Mataranka 171kms)

We started off the day thinking only as far as Larrimah, only about 70kms but Devonshire Tea at Frans got us over that idea. $27.00 for a tough old scone, supplemented by a piece fruit slice. My mug had so many chips in the rim, I had a hard time drinking it. All part of the experience? Somebody should talk to OH&S, you should have seen what she was serving as “Frans Famous Pies”.

We did have a wander around the zoo at the pub and the museum which were worth the stop but I do wish we’d gone there first!

Larrimah Hotel and Zoo

Larrimah didn’t appeal as an overnight stop so we carried on to Mataranka, finding one of the last powered sites big enough to accommodate the Sterling, at tHe Territory Manor.

On a previous visit, we’d stopped at the Homestead, so thought to give the Manor a go. Quite an interesting park, boasting a resturant and barramundi feeding, twice a day. The back end of the park, where we were located had four blocks consisting of four toilet suites, that is shower, hand basin and pan, two for ladies and two for gents. Around these blocks are the sites, about six to each block. It’s almost like they were meant to be en-suite sites but somebody decided to squeeze in a couple more sites and the customers can fight for them. I suppose with many of today’s vans having their own en-suite, nobody cares. We actually scored quite a large site, #37, which was deep enough for the van and wide enough for the awning and the Patrol. We were always going to unhitch. The rest of the day was relax under the awning, then dinner then bed.

A shady site at Territory Manor

Day 30—Wednesday, 24^th July (Mataranka 28kms bobtail)

After breakfast, we wandered over to the restaurant area and the dam where Barra feeding was the feature every day at 9.00am. The Barra didn’t seem too interested and it looked like total failure until one, hungrier than the others showed up. At this point, anyone could step up and get in the water and feed the fish, mostly kids did. We were still with the last half dozen tourists around the dam when the manager offered us “plan B”, a look into the training farm, where a metre long Barra was being trained to take Pilchards from the trainer. Apparently they have to have about six months training and be about two or three years old.

Who's feeding who?

Later, we headed out to Bitter Springs for a walk around the loop. There’s another CP here but there’s a lot of water lying around so I bet, plenty of mozzies! Our pitch at the Manor looking good.

A handful of tourists, “taking the water” which we resisted as we have all along, since as far back as Lightning Ridge. We just did the walk and took some pictures of the incredibly clear water. We also took pictures of an incredible solar pushbike but I’ll post one of those, easier than explaining. Back to the Manor for lunch.

Crystal clear at Bitter Springs

After lunch, it was a visit to Mataranka Homestead. Not too different from our last visit here in 2009. The Homestead replica, looking forlorn and neglected and very dusty. The Homestead was pouring water on the grass nearer the kiosk and bar/ restaurant but they obviously don’t bother about the replica which very much looks like something the film company left behind and nobody cares. Maybe if somebody came up with an idea to make a dollar out of it!

We had a bit of a wander around the shop, where I found a book about the Stuart Highway which I thought a good buy, an unusual occurrence in these parts! All in the eye of the beholder I guess. We resisted buying a Darwin Stubby for $34.00 but bought a couple of Magnum ice creams which we went round to the bar and ate at one of the tables. We didn’t fancy the caravan park, too dusty and still have bad memories of the stay here in 2009 with the Cooks. So good choice the Manor!

Back at the Manor, we decided to have dinner at the restaurant, becoming addicted to grilled Barra. We enjoyed our dinner in the open air restaurant complete with live entertainment, although I found it a bit embarrassing when the entertainer, later visited each table, with cap in hand, asking if we’d enjoyed his singing and guitar playing. Which we had and had bought one of his CDs, so we got away with a thanks. The CD turned out to be second rate, especially the vocals which sounded like they were recorded with the mike too far away. Live and learn.

Avon Downs to Cape Crawford

Day 24—Thursday,18^th July (Avon Downs to Brunette Downs 343kms)

We left Avon Downs at 9.00am, after a lazy breakfast. The camp sites had filled up quickly during the course of the afternoon and most of them had gone by the time we left, not quite the last to leave, a couple stayed behind, perhaps they’d been celebrating the Maroons win last night in State of Origin 3. We are heading for Barkly Homestead this morning, on the Barkly Highway, with about 260kms to the Homestead. A good road and straight a lot of the time, with flat plains country, not much road kill and no stock in sight.

At one stage, we had to pull over for a check after a passing vehicle was seen madly waving us down. Our fresh water hose had jumped out of the carry tray in the A-frame and we’d been dragging it along the highway. Stored and tied down properly this time, a little damage to the brass connector, we’ll find out how much when we next connect.

We stopped to fill up again at the Homestead, I reckon out here, you take the opportunity when presented. Conservatively, our towing capacity is about 600kms. We’d covered 260kms and there remained 380kms to Cape Crawford, the next available fuel. Too close for comfort. After fuelling, we moved to a rest area opposite the Homestead and found some shade to park under while we had lunch.

In the event, we were just 143kms short of our destination and we covered the distance in about an hour and half.

This was now on single lane sealed roadway, something we’d had a bit of experience with after Thargomindah. By Helens count, we encountered three roadtrains at which point, we pulled off the lane and stopped, giving the train no need to move over. We did get friendly honks for this.

We also passed twenty caravans and here we slowed right down but with off side still on the roadway. All the vans did likewise and friendly waves were exchanged.

However, we encountered a couple of utes towing speedboats who didn’t bother to slow which resulted in a chip in the Patrol’s windscreen. Bugger!

Lunch and fuel at Barkly Homestead

More single lane driving, 375kms

Arriving at Brunette Downs, we moved a short way into the scrub, finding three or four other vans already set up. Very soon, we too were set up and set for the night, another very quiet one! Since Mount Isa, no radio, no telly and no mobile and I can’t see that changing until we reach the Stuart Highway at Daly Waters in a couple of days. We were parked quite near a water trough and Helen was amused to watch the cattle moving in and out for a drink.

Pinching the shade at Brunette Downs

The look says it all, we pinched her shade!

Day 25—Friday,19^th July (Brunette Downs to Cape Crawford 230kms)

Breakfast to the bellowing of a lost calf but there were lots of others at the trough for a morning drink including a growly bull in very good nick.

On the road after breakfast, still the very narrow single lane strip but not as much traffic today, maybe we’re too early.

Very flat plains country again and some road kill with a difference, all cattle. Plenty of Kites, Eagles and Ravens but no other wildlife. We came across many narrow one lane bridges over floodways and quite high too which took care in crossing.

We stopped for a cuppa at a spot called Kiana Turn Off, whose major feature was and old wind mill spinning away in the breeze but without any connection to the bore. The wind mill made so much noise, we christened it “squeaky mill”. Later, when talking with other travellers, they had no doubt where or what “squeaky mill” was.

Squeaky Mill

The last part of the drive was uneventful except for a huge area which had been cut and baled into large rounds. This about thirty kilometers south of Cape Crawford. Then about twenty short, we rounded a bend to be greeted by a couple of kilometers of rocky escarpment, which we found out later was the edge of the plateau in which the “Lost City” is situated.

A relatively early arrival, 12.10pm, we checked in for two nights and were told to pick a site, which we did and got set up then had lunch. We then wandered up to the front of the camp to enquire about a flight over the “Lost City”. We were able to made a booking for 2.10pm with the pilot, a young girl who didn’t look old enough to drive a car, never mind a helicopter!

However, we had a great flight which, although we’d booked a twenty minute flight, lasted about thirty, with me hanging out the doorway. The area is astride the McArthur River and a couple of it’s tributaries and is in stark contrast to what we driven through to get here. Except for that last twenty kilometers. We flew over the old McArthur River Homestead, now deserted and desolate, due to a merger of two properties and a new Homestead being built. In the half hour flight, we saw only a half dozen or so cattle at a water hole.

The Lost City (or one of them!)

The country is very dry, no feed but plenty of scrubby trees which Helen thought were Kaypock. After this highlight, we had a lazy afternoon, watching the park fill up. It was one of those parks with no marked pitches, so everybody just parked to suit themselves, many not unhitching for a quick off in the morning. So another day passes, although Helen was up and about in the middle of the night, when a couple of bulls wandered through the camp, upsetting the local as well as visiting dogs.

No way out at Cape Crawford!

Day 26—Saturday,20^th July (Bing Bong on the Gulf of Carpentaria, 271kms bobtail)

We decided on a day trip to Borraloola and a look at the Gulf of Carpentaria.

On the way, we spent a couple of hours at the Caranbirini Conservation Reserve, another Lost City outcrop which has a marked trail in and around so that you can get up close to the so called pipe organs.

Another "Lost City" at Caranbirini

As a bonus, a very quiet billabong with a well built bird hide where we watched mainly Black Ducks and Green Pygmy Ducks but we also spotted a couple of Cormarants and a pair of Brolgas. This about 70kms east of Cape Crawford and well worth the drive. Of interest here, is that as soon as you pass the entrance to the McArthur River Mine, the road which untl then is single lane, becomes a double lane highway all the way to Borraloola and further to Bing Bong.

The Billabong at Caranbirini

Carrrying on, we arrived at Borraloola, a complete waste of fuel. The only excitement here was when a couple of black fellows wanted to play chicken with us and seemed most upset when I didn’t stop. We drove right back out of there and on the lovely double lane and after another 50kms, found Bing Bong, when the secret of the double lane was revealed.

Bing Bong is a loading point for the McArthur Mines zinc and lead concentrates in a small facility sheltered behind West Island. So we had a wander down to the waters edge so satisfy Helen’s need to “dip her toes” in the water. By now, lunch time was calling, we’d covered some 160kms and walked a couple of kilometers at the Conservation Park. No shade here and stinking hot and dusty so we wandered off down the double lane and soon found a shady spot to pull over, got the camp chairs out and enjoyed a cuppa and sandwich. Only one vehicle passed our picnic spot and the driver was so startled, he forgot to wave, which everyone does in these parts, well nearly everyone.

McArthur Mines Loading Dock

Dipping the toe in the Gulf

The drive back to camp was uneventful and when we arrived back we found access to our van blocked by the higgledy piggledy parking arrangements. Being important that we be close enough to plug the car fridge into power, we eventually managed to squeeze in between two overnighters (still hitched), giving them a surprise in the middle of their happy hour. After that, not much more to do but enjoy our own happy hour and have dinner.

Mount Isa to Avon Downs

Day 23—Wednesday,17^th July Mount Isa to Avon Downs NT. (263kms)

Before leaving the park, we decided that, if we were to replace the microwave oven, here would be the place to do so, the town being blessed by K-Mart and Harvey Norman, among other white goods outlets. K-Mart were selling their own brand quite cheaply but the small unit at $45.00 was too small and the medium size at $99.00 would not fit the cavity space in the van, being too long by about 10mm. So we set off to find Harvey Norman and there we found an LG model, 30L and just the right dimension. We came away, some $169.00 poorer but the young assistant at HN lived up to the TV ads and carried the new unit out to the van, which I’d tottered off to fetch from the Coles car park about two blocks away. Not only that but she staggered back across the road, with our old unit for disposal! Thanks Louisa.

So, by now, it’s nearly 11.30am as we left Mount Isa behind, heading for Camooweal and the NT border. An uneventful drive until Camooweal where we had to maneuver into the Road House driveway for a top up. Less than 200kms from a $1.61. price, the roadhouse manages to demand $1.94 per litre. If that’s not price gouging, I don’t know what is!

Only a short drive to the NT border and a quick stop for a photo opportunity, then on another 60kms to the Avon Downs camp site. Here we were early enough to have a wide choice of camp spots and got well set up before the crowd arrived. Very quiet out in the outback and the stars bright and clear. A good night’s sleep was had.

Still Celebrating!

Longreach to Mount Isa

Day 19—Saturday, 13th July (Longreach to Hughenden via Winton 399kms)

On the road again by 9.30am, heading east for Winton, where we stopped for a town walk followed by lunch. There was some kind of Opal Expo going on and the town was packed, with rigs parked everywhere in the streets. We did the Matilda Museum last trip and decided to press on north along the so called Dinosaur Way, also known as the Kennedy Developmental Road, to Hughenden. We arrived just in time to snatch the last powered site which we’ll hang on to for two nights, while we go check out this Dinosaur stuff. We covered 400kms today, a change after the short hauls through the Channel Country. After getting setup, we enjoyed a quiet afternoon and after dinner, tried out the new telly, watching some footy and later the cricket. The new telly worked well, the software easy to understand and operate. Just to even things up though, during the preparation of dinner, our microwave oven blew up, Bugger! Where's Lionel? Tell him to come fetch Murphy!

Day 20—Sunday,14^th July (Hughenden 152kms bobtail)

Helen got some washing started and after breakfast, the washing got hung out. We then walked into town, about two kilometers. The streets, like most of the towns in the region, are very wide. They too would have had to U-turn teams of horse and wagon in the old days.

Not a very impressive town centre but the Information Centre, known as The Flinders Discovery Centre, stands out. Once again, information and museum combined. A large fossil collection and history section on the days when sheep stations were the main source of income in the area. Pride of place though, must go to the full skeletal replica of Muttaburrasaurus. 

The story here is that the original skeleton found near Muttaburra, was not complete.Incomplete and missing bones were "re-constructed from related dinosaurs, such as Iguanadon from Europe.

We strolled around the museum for a good couple of hours, then headed back to the CP for lunch. Washing all dried, folded and stored.

Muttaburrasaurus

After lunch, we decided on a drive out to Porcupine Gorge for a look see. This took us out of town and across the Flinders River, supposedly the longest river in Queensland. Today though all that can be seen is just a bed of sand. As we neared the gorge, we climbed to a high of 568M, as high as a any time, this trip.

The gorge is 27kms in length and the cliff drop at the lookout, 120M. We've recently been suffering from grid fever so it was good that there were only ten grids in this drive and the homesteads much closer to the road which has been built up quite high in places over the flood channels.

Porcupine Gorge

On return to town, we filled the tanks on the Patrol, ready for the off, in the morning. At dinner time, we took our snags to the camp kitchen for BBQing and had a lovely chat to a couple of German lads, doing an outback tenting tour whilst waiying to hear if they'd been accepted at their university of choice, for medicine.

Day 21—Monday,15^th July (Hughenden to Julia Creek 268kms)

Very sunny morning and after a good breakfast, we headed off westwards for Julia Creek. The highway quite uneven but getting used to it. Never again will I wonder why a caravan needs independent suspension! A raised roadway again, above the floodplain. The railline here, seems to be privately operated by Aurizon, as we’d noticed back in Hughenden and we saw regular trains with fully covered wagons!?

We  stopped at Richmond and did the Info Centre/Museum thing again. This centre taking pride of place in an otherwise unremarkable town. It’s an amazing area though and the archaeological finds are world famous. Many of the exhibits have been found by local farmers and loaned to the museum.

Helen found the local butcher and stocked up on silverside, mince, sausages and loin chops. The sausages were 2012 Sausage Champions. We will see!

After the spending spree, we moved out to the town’s other attraction, Lake Fred Tritton. A man made lake, recently completed and which now hosts water skiing and fishing competitions. It also supports plenty of birdlife, including a pair of Pelicans. We were happy just to use one of the many shelters for our sandwich and cuppa. The hospital is adjacent to the lake and we noticed the mobile Dental Service in attendance. It didn’t look very busy.

Pushing on to Julia Creek, we found the budget camping area around the creek, almost full to capacity but managed to find a level site some distance away and of course nearer to the highway.

Julia Creek (Be Early Though)

We got the Baby Q out and cooked the chops mentioned earlier and they were as good as they looked. Another good day, with the sun setting over Julia Creek and the proximity of the highway bothered me not.

Day 22—Tuesday,16^th July (Julia Creek to Mount Isa via Cloncurry 268kms)

After breakfast and some entertainment, watching a Rainbow Bee Eater catching his breakfast, we headed off into town. Julia Creek is famous for it’s Dunnart, a small marsupial, about the size of a large mouse. The Dunnart had been thought extinct until recently and has now been reared successfully at a sanctuary outside town and at a zoo in NSW. Unfortunately, feral cats have been a great pest in the area and hindering successful release of the animal.

The Julia Creek Dunnart

Stopped in Cloncurry, at the Mary Kathleen Mine Museum for lunch. The museum car park was littered with rigs, mostly hugging the edges where there was some shade, so we moved out towards the highway and parked under a gum tree. While we lunched, we were well entertained by a Magpie singing for his mate.

When we arrived in Mount Isa, we found the Top Tourist CP full, or no powered sites anyway. We had been here in 2009 and it was full then but they found us a site in the “overflow area” which was easy to drive into but very difficult to reverse out of. So not to unhappily turned around and headed back down the highway and pinched the last powered site at the Mount Isa Caravan Park (Oz Parks). Next to the highway, very noisy back also next to the laundry which was convenient as Helen wanted to change and wash the bed linen.

After all that and unhooking the Patrol, we set off to renew our acquaintanceship with the Mount Isa Irish Club where we celebrated Helen’s birthday. We both had grilled barramundi along with a complementary bottle of Yellow Tail Cab Sav. Nice and they knew nothing about somebody’s birthday! I think we did the same, last trip in 2009 but no vino! On the way back to the CP we filled up at Coles Express with the help of a shopper docket from an earlier visit to Coles. At a 161.9c per litre, a 4c discount doesn’t make much difference.

Coopers Creek to Longreach

Day 16—Wednesday, 10^th July

Single Lane Bridge Over Cooper Creek near Windorah

After breakfast, headed off across Cooper Creek’s one lane bridge, into Winton. As usual, first call at the Info Centre. As with many of these centres, this one too was part museum, part community centre, so we had a good wander around. Helen bought a dammit Doll?

Something that makes Windorah unique, is their Solar Farm, five huge mirror dishes, each dish contains 112 mirrors measuring 1100mms square. The mirrors concentrate the sunlight onto a panel of cells, which is converted into electricity, which is then fed into the town’s power network.

So, onwards towards Helen’s favourite destination about 60kms up the highway towards Longreach. This was a small town called Stonehenge! Nothing like that other better known Stonehenge but a visit out of curiosity. The Community/Info Centre was of some interest, mainly because it had internet access which we made use of to send some cash home, for firewood. To mark the visit, we decided on lunch at the pub, bacon and egg burger for me and a pie for Helen, with a good cold one to wash it all down.

We were almost done when the publican came by and asked how was lunch, then where do you come from. The usual explanation cause nobody knows where Nyora is, right, Should have learned from our earlier experience! It went somthing like: “I know where Nyora is, I was born in Inverloch”. “My family owned pubs at various times and places, including the one at Loch”! The name was Beaton. Again, how small a world. Must be a big change, moving to a town with a population of thirty, six of them school children!

We finally reached Longreach around 4.00pm and got set up. Dinner was a sausage sizzle at the campfire, listening to a country singer.

Day 17—Thursday, 11^th July

In the morning, a drive into town for a wander and to check out prices on 22” TV’s. We also found a garage that can do the service on the Patrol in the morning. That might mean another night. At the Info Centre, we were referred to Desert Channels for  a copy of a map of the Cooper Basin that we took a fancy too. A great store to tour, is Kinnons & Co., a gift shop come leather goods shop. Best visited when you’ve left your wallet at home! During our wanders, we decided to lash out on a new TV. The brand unfamiliar but it ticks a couple of boxes, such as external power supply and built in DVD player. External power supply means we can connect directly to the 12v supply in the van.

After returning to the van and a sandwich, we drove down the highway to the Hall of Fame and forked out another $100 for a two day ticket to the museum and dinner and show at the Catleman’s Bar & Grill. So the rest of the day was spent going through the Hall of Fame Museum. Dinner was a fixed menu, rump steak, chips and vege and delicious.

The Stockman's Hall of Fame

The stockman dinner show was by Lachie Cossor from Yackandandah, a half hour mix of whip cracking and riding skills, including all three of Lachie’s daughters, ranging from nine years to fifteen all excellent riders. After the show, dinner as above was served.

Day 18—Friday, 12th July

Early out and into Longreach with the Patrol, then a 2km walk back to the van for shower and breakfast. We had discovered a shortcut to the Hall of Fame from the back of the caravan park so we headed back there for another visit. You check in at the reception desk and get wrist banded in the day’s colour.

Since we’d enjoyed the Stockman’s Show last night, we booked in for the extended version at 11am and then took a wander through the Hugh Sawrey Art Gallery.

The one hour extended show was much enjoyed, although now without the three girls, probably at school! Today the show included horse training as well as dogs working sheep. I reckon the sheep were pretty well trained too. Also on display was Jigsaw a huge cross bred bull from a Brahman bull and a cross Hereford/Friesian cow.

Lachie Cosser and Jigsaw

 After walking back to the van and some lunch we strolled back into town to collect the Patrol, another $300.00 injection into the local economy. Getting over that, we then pulled into the Caltex service station to fill up, another $215.00.

Here for the first time since Dubbo, we were able to top up the LPG too. Over the last couple of diesel only fills, the fuel economy blew out from 16l/100k to 20l/100k, so the saving on dual diesel/gas is noticeable. But out here the cost of LPG at $1.00 per litre, compared to an average of $0.60 at home, reduces the gap. Although, as the cost of diesel increases, it’s all relative.

Back at the van, we sat outside for a little happy hour and were joined by our neighbours, a couple from Horsham. One delight at this caravan park is the unafraid, not tame, presence of a pair of Brolga’s which management advise not to feed.