Wongan Hills to Hyden (Wave Rock) (Day 95 - 100)

Day 95—Friday, 27th September (Wongan Hills to York 170kms)
After breakfast and hitching up, we took some last minute photos around the park. The caravan park is privately owned and we were quite impressed by the efforts being made to make it a more appealing stop. They don't have the water to support grass sites and no pretence but are making a great good gravel entertainment areas

Camp kitchen and TV lounge

The bbq and shelter area with seating

Driving down the street, we found a parking spot for a quick visit to the hardware store for some 10 amp fuses. As we pack up for the road, we disconnect the TV and store it on the bed and on two occasions, when reconnecting, I’ve managed to short the end of the plug and blow a fuse. Must remember to pull the other end out of the 12V supply point. While I made the trip to Home Hardware, Helen made a visit to the op shop.

Not far out of Wogan Hills, we found ourselves driving through Lake Ninan and turned off into a rest area on the lake. Surprise, surprise, somebody camping here and not just overnight. This would be a great spot to rest a wait for the next pension cheque! The information board explained why the lake is saline and laid out plans for revegetation. Some of the locals didn’t agree and had shot the board full of .22 holes.

Lake Ninan

How it could be!

Access for recreation vehicles

We are really zig zagging about the country now and  this morning was no different, with a zig west to Calingiri, the a zag south to Bolgart and onwards through Northam to York, less than a hundred kilometres from Perth. Helen had worked out the scenic route and it was a very pleasant drive to Calingiri with great paddoks of grain crops, wheat, oats, barley and canola. Sometimes a paddock looked like canola, then when you drew nearer you found a paddock being spelled and full of Cape Weed. These weed paddocks often had large flocks of sheep grazing.

Apart from sheep, we saw beef cattle, horses and alpacas. Sometimes the alpacas were mixed with the sheep. Soon though, south of Bolgart the landscape started to change, more hilly and with rocky outcrops.

We stopped at Toodyay for morning tea and ended up having lunch there as well.

Helen had spotted a Bendigo Bank branch, the first for a long while. So we made a visit and Helen drew out some cash and made an appointment to return later and arrange internet banking. Meanwhile a wander around the town and a few groceries at IGA.
A very pretty town, set on the banks of the Avon River. We discovered that when the town was gazetted in 1860, it was named Newcastle after the then Duke of Newcastle. We couldn’t find out why the name was changed, there never was a Duke of Toodyay! When we eventually got back on the road, it followed the river for quite a while, making a very pleasant drive. Toodyay would certainly be on our list of places to return to.

Soon, we arrived in York, after negotiating the traffic through Northam. Here at Northam, we spotted our first traffic lights since Katherine. Maybe there was one in Broome?? Northam, although ninetysix kilometres from Perth, looked almost an outer suburb, too metropolitan for us and we didn’t stop.

York on the other hand appealed straight away, we had to drive through the main street to reach the caravan park, admiring all the old buildings. Here I think the park was a let down after the town, although the managers were very pleasant and helpful. I think it could do with some tlc. Some effort had been made on one side of the park, to gravel seal sites but weeds were growing through and taking over. The park was quite full though but as we were keen to find a place to rest up and watch the grand final, we booked in for two nights and were given a site on the edge of the park, almost an “overflow” site but it was level and had water and power. We’d been concerned to see three and four metre TV masts in town and were told that they were from the “old” system. As we set up and settled in, we found reception was great so we'll be able to relax tomorrow afternoon.

Our "overflow" site at York CP

Day 96—Saturday, 28th September (York)

Grand Final Day 2013! There’s a lot of “purple haze” around and why not, after nineteen years. Because of the two hour time difference, the footy starts at 12.30 here, so we thought a quick visit to town and a wander around and set off after breakfast.

York was established in 1831, making it WA’s oldest inland town and is famed for it’s colonial architecture. We walked the main street, admiring the fine old buildings. We noticed the York Motor Museum which is said to have 150 vintage, veteran and classic cars and race cars. Next door, the restored, National Trust Old Courts and Goal. We didn’t think we could do justice in the time available and agreed to come back in the morning. The Town Hall also drew our attention and being the Information Centre as well, we couldn’t pass it up. The building dates to 1911, the largest ever built in country WA and is Heritage listed.

York Town Hall

After a good look around, we continued down the street and visited the Old Mill, another listed site. The mill is a retail complex now, with an art gallery and a clothing boutique on the ground floor, convention and meeting facilities above, a bakery, a book shop (new and used) and a cafe, where we enjoyed a Devonshire Tea.

The Old Mill at York now a boutique complex

Very impressed with the solid timber hand basins in the Mill loo!

By now, it was time to make our way back to the caravan park for lunch and settle down for the grand final. Unhappily, it was obvious early that Freo had the first time nerves, missing four shots for goal in the first quarter that they’d have swallowed last week at home. So they would have gone home knowing the difference between a home final and a grand final at the MCG. Still a good game to watch though and most enjoyed. Roll on season 2014!

All over by 3.30pm here in WA so not to waste a minute, we went for another drive, to another lookout. Again, good distance views but again the town somewhat obscured. As a bonus, Helen found a native orchid!

So easy to miss these little Orchids

Day 97—Sunday, 29th September (York to Kokerbin Rock NP 125km)

We left York Caravan Park around 9.30am and drove into town, finding a caravan parking spot behind the shopping strip on the Avon River. Interestingly, we noticed this spot signed as a minimum twentyfour hour stop and a couple of vans had made use of it.

First up, we took a stroll over the old suspension bridge, which links the park on the town side of the river with houses on the opposite side, giving everyone easy access to this lovely riverside park.

Old Suspension Bridge over the Avon River

The Avon River at York

Then we walked into town and visited the York Car Museum and then the Police Courts and Goal. The car museum, established in 1979 is a privately owned by Peter Briggs and is recognised as one of the finest private collections. Full of vintage and veteran classic cars, some familiar others strange and unheard of, many with information boards, detailing their history and acquisition dates. There was also a display of veteran motorcycles and loads of other motoring memorabilia.

Veteran...

Vintage...

and Open Wheel Racers

Almost next door was the Courthouse Complex, dating back to 1852, beginning as a police station and lockup, with the courtroom added in 1859. The complex was steadily extended as the population grew, until in 1910, a police residence was added. This residence and another earlier residence behind the goal are now privately owned and occupied.

The cells were still in use up until 1981 when a new police station was built in town and the courtroom continued in use after the National Trust took over the complex in 1983. Another town that can go on the list of return visits, if only they do something with that caravan park.

The Old Courthouse

Courtroom from the Gallery

The Cell Block

Not much room to swing the cat!

So after a good couple of hours we went back to the van and had morning tea and got back on the highway about 12.45pm. We stopped for lunch at Quairading, then pushed on to Kokerbin Rock.

The Rock, is another of the granite outcrops that abound in the area and we arrived a little on the late side for a good site, the area nearest the toilet block, quite packed. The track runs all the way around the rock and we just followed, passing another campsite that looked pretty full and then came to a deserted car park with two spots for parking caravans. Although a long way from the long drop loo, it was quiet so we parked the van and got set up, taking the vans weight off the Patrol.

Kokerbin is the third largest granite monolith in Australia. Assuming Ayers Rock the biggest, we will have to research the second. Our first surprise was a well at the start of the walking trail, looking very good after maybe 100 years!

Dry stone walled well

Perhaps 100 years old

We climbed the rock, all the way to the cairn on the summit. Great views of the surrounding farms, mostly grain. Plenty of wildflowers up here, we even spotted an orchid. There was a Small Devil’s Marbles on the way up but we may have missed the sign, we were never sure if we were in fact looking at “the marbles”, there were that many little piles of them!

Good views from the summit

Another wave formation at Kokerbin Rock

I

Cairn at the summit

It was quite a rough and lengthly climb and we were both glad to get back down to the van, passing the old dry stone well again, on the way. There used to be a school near here but no sign of it now.

Day 98—Monday, 30th September (Kokerbin Rock to Kulin 138kms)

We’ve been off the main highways for a while now and today was no different. Soon after leaving Kokerbin Rock we turned off again at Shackleton, where we paused to check out the country’s smallest bank.

Bank West Shackleton, open every Friday 3.00-4.30pm

We are always pleasantly surprised at the country roads we’re travelling. This time we’re on the lookout for Underground Orchids but it seems we’re way too late for this one, if not all orchids.

As we arrived at Babaken, we stopped at the Hall where a large story board told the story of the Underground Orchids and it seems they flower much earlier, around May and June. While here we met Brian and Thelma, from Corrigen, who were able to tell us about this endangered little plant. They also suggested a spot on the road we were travelling, where we could look for other orchids. We did find the spot a bit later but there was no safe stopping with the van. They were clever enough to have warned us of this and so we had to keep going.

But, back on track, we continued on our way, stopping at Corrigen for lunch and a refuel. Today was a public holiday in WA and the roadhouse service station was the only place in town and everybody seemed to be there filling up, either fuel tanks or bellies and many doing both. On top of that, a tour bus full of Japanese tourists pulled up for a rest and drink break. What a bun fight!

Leaving Corrigan, on the highway, we passed the point mentioned above but were unable to stop and then, not much further on, we turned off the highway again towards Kulin. We arrived at Kulin and pulled into a large parking area by the local conveniences, big enough for road trains, never mind van and tug! There were toilets and showers but unhappily the showers were out of order due to vandalism. What a pity. There was also a notice suggesting an area behind the block could be used by “self contained” vehicles for 24hr stop over. One caravan was already on the park. So we thought, why not and joined them.

Later on, when we thought of the pub for dinner, we were disappointed to find the kitchen closed due to the long week-end. That’s the country for you. Back to the van and beans on toast. Even later, it got quite cold, we hope not a sign of weather to come.

Day 99—Tuesday, 1st October (Kulin to Hyden and Wave Rock 118kms)

Kulin is known as Macrocarpa country and has a wildflower walk, known as the Macrocarpa Trail. After breakfast we decided on a quick visit as it was only a couple of kilometres back up the highway and only a short walk of just over a kilometre. Although the Information Centre couldn’t advise us about parking for caravans at the site, we found a large turning circle well off the road at the start of the walk. You couldn’t see it from the highway but I managed to stop off the highway and walk in and have a look. Disappointing that the folk at the Information Centre didn’t know this.

Eucalyptus macrocarpa, is a mallee Eucalyptus that is native to the south-west . of WA and isnoted for its large, spectacular flowers. Well the Macrocarpa was well and truly finished flowering but I'd spotted one in our York walk about and couldn't resist. Isn't it truly spectacular in somebody's front yard.?

Eucalyptus macrocarpa in it's native environment

...nuts but no flowers

Although we only covered 118kms today, it could have been even less. Nearly twenty of that was due to taking the wrong road out of Kulin, I must have zigged when I should have zagged!

Helen had planned more back roads, taking the Tin Horse Highway. The Tin Horse Highway, is a clever community art project. Tin horses of all shapes and sizes, line the highway, between the town and the race track. The annual cup races are a big event on the local calendar.

This one not on the highway but in a front yard in town!

Arriving at Hyden, we passed through the township and checked in at the caravan park for a couple of nights, by which time lunch was calling. After the sandwiches and cuppa, we set out to explore the Rock. Wave Rock, is simply a feature on the side of Hyden Rock, a huge outcrop of granite, not unlike others we’ve visited, Kokerbin being the most recent. The rock has long been used as the towns water catchment, rainfall being channelled into a big dam on the side of Hyden Rock.

After walking along the base of Wave Rock and snapping some pix, very difficult, because there always seemed to be somebody getting in the way, having their photo taken in a surfing pose and trying to get as far up the wave as possible. Patience paid off and we soon got what we wanted, a photo of the rock!

Continuing along the base, there’s a set of steel stairs which climbs up to the top, passing as you do, the water storage dam. As mentioned, the walk around the top of Hyden Rock was not very different from others but we still cherished the hope of spotting some orchids but it was not to be. There’s always the views and up here was no different, great views of the surrounding area.

The Wave Rock at Hyden

The traditional view with tourists for height comparison

Town water supply on Hyden Rock

Walking the walk on the rock.

Day 100—Wednesday, 2nd October (Wave Rock)

Not a lot to report on this landmark day, #100. Helen got some laundry done while I got some typing done. Then we thought we’d take another walk around the base of the rock, this time in the other direction, to Hippo’s Yawn. On the way, we spotted lots of the little Dragon Lizard, scuttling away over the warm rocks, then pausing to give us the eye and their approval, marked by quick nods of the head. I just nodded back. Afterwards, I read that the nodding is a mating ritual and was quite relieved that they were not fooled by my nods.

Getting the nod from a Dragon Lizard

The walk along this part of the base forms a unique landscape as there’s no catchment walls and the rainwater runs off onto the surrounding bush. This makes a wide area of water loving plants and trees, mostly sheoaks which soak up water like a sponge. Lots of daisies and pigface, the latter enjoying the high salt content in the area which is ringed by salt pans. In some places, there were great cracks in the rock face and huge sections ready to slide down to the base. That may take another hundred years. We'll have a look then!

This slab has already moved down the slope

Arriving at the Hippo's Yawn, we had a short rest and took some photos before walking back to the caravan park.

The Hippo's Yawn

Pigface everywhere.

After sorting out the laundry and having lunch, we wandered across the street to the Information Centre and had a browse. The complex here includes a Wildflower Shop, a Game Park, a Lace Collection and a Toy Soldier Exhibit. So while Helen wandered through the Lace Collection, I took it easy in the cafe at the Wildflower Shop, being rudely awakened by Helen on her return. Just for that, I insisted she pay for the Devonshire Scones and Tea.

The Lace Collection dated back to 1650 and Helen was quite thrilled and impressed with the wedding dresses and other clothes, from a bygone time. Also in the collection, a 1922 Dodge, bought in 1948 for £15. Nor sure what that has to do with lace, just part of the display, which also included Jarah cabinets and a beautiful dress made by a farmers wife, with the string from Super bags. Not much worthwhile on the telly, so we watches a DVD after dinner, series three of Downton Abbey, which we’d missed earlier in the year.

Lace Gowns c1927

Mount Magnet to Wongan Hills (Day 87-94)

Day 87—Thursday, 19th September (Mount Magnet to Mullewa 250kms)

Topped up again at the local service station, then did another walk in the town, with a visit to the bakery, which had been recommended by the park office. Only open three days per week, today being the last. Some sticky buns for morning tea appealed but no such luck, come back on Tuesday. Yeah, right!

As we’ve been progressing southwards, we’ve begun to notice wildflowers on the road verges and as we approach Mullewa, which is promoted as the gateway to wildflower country, we see them more regularly. Gum trees are noticeable by their absence. Road kill has reverted to wildlife, mostly kangaroos, which means plenty of crows and eagles to be seen. Maybe something to do with the changing landscape, we are seeing sheep and goats, lots of goats, which we assume are feral.

The Mullewa Caravan Park is council run and check in is in town at the Ampol service station and takeaway. We checked in for one night and made our way up the street to the park. This is another park with sealed sites, something we’ve come across starting at Newman. These sites were shaped so that the van was backed in with the door opening onto a grassed area which the awning overhung. Then on the other side of the van, there was sealed parking space for the car. So we soon got set up and got the chairs and table set up on the grass and enjoyed afternoon tea.

Onsite at Mullewa

Since there was still plenty of daylight left, we decided to take the Wildflower Walk, which commenced right outside the caravan park gates. This was a three kilometre ramble through a reserve, in places, carpeted with wildflowers, mainly the everlasting daisies. The Wreath Flower (Lechenaultia Macrantha, the town’s floral emblem eluded us. Back at the van, it was time to start thinking of dinner.

Opposite the Caravan Park

Lots of Everlasting Daisies...

...and Other Wildflowers, this one Desert Raisin

Day 88—Friday, 20th September (Mullewa 199kms bobtail)

After breakfast and a visit to the laundry, we visited the Information Centre, enquiring about the shy Wreath Flower and were told that we might find some on one of the two suggested drive trails. These were marked out on the town map and we were given some extra tips on where to look. On the strength of all this good news, we went back across the road and paid for two more nights at the caravan park.

A quick trip back to the park and bring the washing in and we were off. The Southern Circuit Trail was marked regularly by interpretive signs which we enjoyed reading, learning about the history of the area. Eventually, we reached the area suggested by the Information Centre but after a quite extensive wander, no Wreath Flower. Plenty of wildflowers but not the one we were looking forward to finding. We had taken sandwiches with us and we enjoyed these along with a cuppa at the road intersection where we were supposed to find our flowers. So, although a bit disappointed, we headed back to Mullewa. Still, the drive was pleasant, much of it on good gravel roads, through the wheat fields. We will try again on the Northern Trail.

First Stop on the Southern Trail

Most Common, Seen Everywhere

After a long day at the wheel and much trudging through the bush, we decided to have dinner at the Sports Club. Tonight was Chinese night and while we enjoyed dinner, we watch the Hawks squeak home against the Cats, on a giant screen.

Day 89—Saturday, 21st September (Mullewa 199kms bobtail)

We planned to drive the Northern Circuit today and moved out quite early. First we decided to backtrack to the little town of Pindar, which used to be the railway hub, in the “old days” and we’d missed this section yesterday. Pindar meant a 40kms round trip back down the highway, it’s prominent feature being the huge grain handling shed. Our map showed the presence of Wreath Flower here to but not today!

The Grain Storage at Pindar

Pindar Pub, Last Drinks January, 1975

Back in town, we decided to drive up to the town lookout but although long views were great, over the grain crops, the town views were obscured by tree and shrub growth. Then we set off on the circuit proper which the map noted as a 145kms drive and again, we carried lunch and the trusty thermos flask. There are thirteen points of interest along this trail, each one with it’s rusty steel sculpture and interpretive panel, explaining the history of the place.

Sculpture and Information on Tenindewa Stockyards

The stops ranged from rusty old stock yards down the highway at Tenindewa which should probably have been sent to the scrap dealer long ago, to interesting natural features like the Bindoo Glacier Beds and the Pioneer Cemetery. About midway, we lunched on the banks of the Greenough River and soon after a 4WD track through Bindoo Hill Nature Reserve. We missed the Interpretive sign for the reserve but I sincerely hope it points out the need for 4WD!

We enjoyed a quiet lunch by the Greenough River

One of the better sections in Bindoo Hill Nature Reserve

Other points of interest were a carbon capture feature, where over a million seedlings have been planted out. Finally, the Pioneer Cemetery took our interest. It’s quite revealing to read dates and ages and realise how a hard life in the times, shortened the life span. Many graves were just mounds, without headstones, while others were quite elaborate.

Back in town, we visited the Church of Our Lady of Mt Carmel, built by the priest architect, Monsignor John Hawes. The building is classified by the National Trust and deserves to be. It's a shame to see all the windows being shielded on the outside from vandals but stepping inside we enjoyed them with sunlight streaming through..

Our Lady of Mt Carmel

We had an early dinner so that we could relax and watch the footy, Swans vs Dockers? A tough assignment for the Swans and they were not quite up to it. In fact, for a while it looked like they weren’t in the same class. Well, roll on next season, hopefully they can come up again but it will be interesting to see the changes.

Day 90—Sunday, 22nd September (Mullewa to Coalseam Nature Park 55kms)

Well its been coming for a while but the late winter weather has finally caught up. Or maybe it’s us that caught up, travelling to far south. You might have noticed the changed sky lately, with clouds. Compare them to earlier photos in the north when the clear blue can be blinding. We woke to the sound of light rain and a blustery wind. After a quick bobtail dash into town to fuel up, we were ready to leave just on 10.00am.

The drive to Coalseam, although short, included 8kms of gravel and we made good time, checking in just after 11.00am. Coalseam is a small park, to small to boast a Visitors Centre but does have volunteer hosts, as at Karijini. In chatting to camp host Carol, we discovered that her grandmother was born in Korumburra and had relatives in Wonthaggi by the name of Whitworth. Small world! We also were sad to hear that the orchids had not had a good season and although Carol directed us to a site, we were too late.

Coalseam gets its name from the early discovery of coal along the Irwin River here. The coal was not of a high enough grade and distances were so great that mining became uneconomic and the miners drifted away, Quite a familiar story.

The park is made up of two “day use” sections, one of which also has camping sites. Of course no water and no power but generators can be used for a couple of hours in the morning and again in the afternoon. The camping area is at Miners Campsite and is well set up for day visits with picnic tables and bench seats and free electric barbecues. The campsite, takes it’s name the old mine shafts just across the river.

An only criticism would be that the campsite must have been an afterthought and the toilet block is situated in the day area, making a long walk for campers. Afterwards, Carol mentioned that they are expecting a second toilet block to be installed in the camping area sometime soon. 

At the other end of the park, another day visit area is River Bend and as you’d expect it nestles in a wide bend in the river. Again, the area is well set up with picnic tables, barbecues and toilets. Here, we went for a long walk along the riverbed and had great views of the exposed layers in the cliff face where the river in flood has cut into the cliff, creating big overhangs. About five different layers are exposed, including black coal!

High walls at Riverbend Campsite with lookouts perched above

On the Irwin River

Layered wall in the gorge

For a bit of a change of view, there’s a gravel road leading up to the rim of the gorge, with a pair of lookouts which give a great view of the countryside. After all that activity, it was time to get back to the van and put the feet up! No such luck, we’ve still got the mine shafts to visit, across the river. OK, now can I put my feet up?

The Riverbend from the Lookout

Not quite feet up but taking a break

Day 91—Monday, 23rd September (Coalseam NP to Morawa 103kms)

On the road again, did I mention the blue skies?

Heading out of the park this morning, there was no need to backtrack as the road we came in on, continued on to Mingenew. An equally good gravel road for the first 8kms then back on the blacktop albeit narrow blacktop. We stopped for a walk around town at Mingenew, visiting the IGA for some fruit and the bakery for some sticky buns for morning tea. After a cuppa and bun, we visited the historical society’s museum. Mingenew has the largest bulk handling grain storage facility in the southern hemisphere but unhappily there are no high points where a decent photo can be taken, at least not accessible with a couple of tons of caravan on tow. So we had to make do with a drive onto the site and even then it didn’t do justice to the facility.

Heading off for Morowa, we encountered quite windy conditions and some light rain. The countryside flat with some undulations and occasional rocky outcrops. Lots of grain crops now as we move towards the Wheatbelt. We saw lots of sheep and some horses and the roadside is full of colourful flowers, mainly the everlasting daisys.

On arrival at the caravan park, the manager was absent but a notice invited new arrivals to pick a site and see him later. No problems, we were soon backed up next to a big concrete pad. After a quich lunch, we headed down town for a visit to the Information Centre. Here, we found a very helpful lady volunteer, who gave us a map and details of where to find the elusive Wreath Flower.

Driving out of town to our first turn off point, we passed through an area of very salty looking lakes, mostly dry. About 25kms further, following our map with it’s careful directions and distances, we at last spotted the Wreaths. Helen was very excited, running up and down the roadside, clicking away with her camera. The amazing thing, these flowers and others too are growing on a road verge that gets graded every year, after the rains. A very satisfying end to the day and we’d missed the caravan park manager again. He’s left an envelope on our door, with instructios to deposir $25.00 and place it in a locked letterbox in front of the office.

Day 92—Tuesday, 24th September (Morawa to Dalwallinu 253kms)

Neither of us had exact money, so we made a quick dash down the street and changed a fifty before placing the envelope as requested. Phantom manager, that envelope could have come from anyone! We also made a quick call at the Information Centre to say thanks, which was well recieved, especially since we were able to confirm that the flowers were still there.

So, eventually leaving the park, we headed for the Morowa Windmill Museum. Again run by volunteers, this time the museum has focused on windmills, with a whole shed full of them. Of course, there were still all the other bits and pieces, collected from around the area and relating to the towns history. Very interesting and a pleasant hour plus was passed.

Then off again, this time a morning tea stop at Perenjori. Here we also visited the Information Centre and again, we were given precise directions to another crop of Wreath Flowers. This meant turning east from Perenjori towards the Great Northern Highway, instead of staying on our southerly track to Dalwallinu. We could resume southwards on reaching the highway, for the same destination.

We’d actually been advised of this site back in Morowas Information Centre but hearing that it was an 80kms detour, and given that we’d successfully located a site in Morowa, thought it too far. However, the new information that it was more or less on our route to Dalwallinu, we changed direction.

The drive was in fact about 75kms to the flower site and only about 4kms further to the GNH. The change in direction was made worthwhile when we easily spotted the roadside Wreath Flowers growing in profusion. And, again in a site that’s graded every year! Once we’d had our fill and taken lots of photos, we moved the van to a better position and had our lunch among the Wreaths!

We found the Wreath Flowers growing on a 2kms strip, both sides

Lechenaultia Macramtha

Back on the road and as mentioned, a short drive to the Great Northern Highway then on southwards towards Dalwallinu. By now and with another hour or so to our destination, we considered an overnight stop at a rest area. One such rest area presented, just ten kilometres down the GNH so we pulled in to have a look. Therest area was huge and looked recently sealed and gravelled but when I inspected the toilets I was disgusted enough to change and drive on. This site also provided a dump point for toilet cassettes and this too had been vandalised and blocked with effluent overflow, quite disgusting.

So nothing for it but press on and check in to the Dalwallinu Caravan Park, where we scored a drive through that enabled us to stay hitched. Quite handy by then as it was after 5.00pm.

Day 93—Wednesday, 25th September (Dalwallinu to Wongan Hills 78kms)

After leaving the park, we found a spot to park the van in town, while we took a walk around. Dalwallinu is a neat little place, slightly off the highway, so the roadtrains and other traffic are not rushing through the main street. The shopping strip lies along one side and on the other side a nice little park runs the full length of the shops. The park fronted the old railway station, now a restaurant.

First up, a visit to the Chemist to top up my pill supply, then The Dally Butcher where we blew $90.00 on sausage, boerewors, chops, Dorey fillets, chicken thighs and a piece of corned silverside.

A visit to the Discovery Centre passed a very absorbing three quarters of an hour , reading about the history of the area. Of much interest, was a display on the Malleefowl by the local Mallefowl Preservation Society! Same story as in Victoria, loss of habitat, they’ve cleared so much land here in the Wheatbelt, whithout considering wildlife. One last stop on the way out of town, where the fuel bill approached $150.00, so little Dally did well out of us and by the time we hit the highway, it was well after 11.00am.

About ten kilometres south of Dalwallinu, we again left the Great Northern Highway for our next stop at Wongan Hills. Our route here took us through a vast area of salt lakes, many with plenty of water and those without edged with layers of white crusty salt. The lakes were often surrounded by wheat fields and at times the scenery as one or the other, salt lake or wheat field. We are truly in the Wheatbelt now and have been since Mullewa. The crop grown here is a short variety about 15-20cms high so the farmers don’t need the stockfeed available from the longer variety, which is cut and baled after the headers have done their work. We stopped for morning tea at the small town of Bullita.

Arriving at Wongan Hills about 1.00pm, we checked in for a two night stay, we’ve been told there are lots of wildflower walks in the area. Soon well set up on a concrete slab site, the site wide enough for the van with awning and the car alongside. Lunch was taken and then a visit to the Visitors Centre where we were given lots of information about the walks. We were also told of the local Nissan dealer, as another service is due.

By now, mid afternoon, we decided a walk at Gathercole Reserve, about ten kilometres out of town was feasible, so off we went. We had to drive past the Nissan place, so called in and were told they could do the service in the morning.

Carrying on out to the Reserve, we took the two hour circular walk. We were again mindful that the wildflower season has been  a poor one, with lack of rain in June/July being blamed. The commonest flowers are still around in many places, sometimes like a flower blanket but the rarer varieties are less prominent. We did find one orchid, which was quite common at this reserve but overall we may have to come this way another year. 

On the way back to the caravan park, we stopped off at the local IGA store for some groceries. This was a much bigger store than either Morowa or Dalwallinu, offering the full range expected at IGA. So, by the time we did get back to the van, it was time to think of dinner. Out came the Baby Q and we tried some of the Dally butcher’s sausages and chops along with fresh vegies from IGA. All good.

Day 94—Thursday, 26th September (Wongan Hills)

Early start and right after breakfast, Helen got the laundry going, while I took the Patrol to the dealer, who gave me a lift back to the park.

So, without transport, the nearby Christmas Rock Reserve beckoned. The entry just behind the park and another two hour wander through the reserve didn’t reveal anything we’d not already seen but it was a nice walk.

Salmon Gums on the Christmas Rock Trail

Granite Kunzea (kunzea pulchell) 

Actually very interesting for another feature. The rock is a granite outcrop and channels have been created to harvest the rainfall, which is then stored in the town dam. Although we’d not seen as many varieties of orchids as we hoped, another visit to the information centre informed us that recent rains are expected to bring them out, maybe in a few days! Too late, next time.

Water harvesting channel

Back at the van we enjoyed lunch and brought the washing in for folding and storing. After lunch, I would have been happy to lounge about and do some typing for the blog, maybe even a snooze. Not so Helen who decided after a while on a walk down the street. My excuse was, I was expecting a phone call and delivery of the newly serviced Patrol. As things turned out, Helen got her walk, I got some typing done and just got my head done for forty winks when the phone call came through. The garage picked me up and to my delight, not only serviced but well detailed as well, shiny as a new dollar coin. Well done Jolly & Sons of Wongan Hills. After returning to the garage and paying the bill, I got back to the van at the same time as Helen arrived back from her downtown walk.

Shiny Patrol at Wongan Hills Caravan Park

So, now we’ve got wheels again, why not make use of them? A drive out to the town lookout at Mt. O’Brien was the answer. I’m really looking forward to getting home for a rest! Just a bit late for photography when we got there and a chilly wind but we sat in the Patrol and watched the evening news until sunset.

PS. Better reception up here than in the caravan park!

The lookout at Mt O'Brien

Lake Ninnan in the distance (salt lake)

Going...

going...

Gone! The sun sets on day 94