Wongan Hills to Hyden (Wave Rock) (Day 95 - 100)

Day 95—Friday, 27th September (Wongan Hills to York 170kms)
After breakfast and hitching up, we took some last minute photos around the park. The caravan park is privately owned and we were quite impressed by the efforts being made to make it a more appealing stop. They don't have the water to support grass sites and no pretence but are making a great good gravel entertainment areas

Camp kitchen and TV lounge

The bbq and shelter area with seating

Driving down the street, we found a parking spot for a quick visit to the hardware store for some 10 amp fuses. As we pack up for the road, we disconnect the TV and store it on the bed and on two occasions, when reconnecting, I’ve managed to short the end of the plug and blow a fuse. Must remember to pull the other end out of the 12V supply point. While I made the trip to Home Hardware, Helen made a visit to the op shop.

Not far out of Wogan Hills, we found ourselves driving through Lake Ninan and turned off into a rest area on the lake. Surprise, surprise, somebody camping here and not just overnight. This would be a great spot to rest a wait for the next pension cheque! The information board explained why the lake is saline and laid out plans for revegetation. Some of the locals didn’t agree and had shot the board full of .22 holes.

Lake Ninan

How it could be!

Access for recreation vehicles

We are really zig zagging about the country now and  this morning was no different, with a zig west to Calingiri, the a zag south to Bolgart and onwards through Northam to York, less than a hundred kilometres from Perth. Helen had worked out the scenic route and it was a very pleasant drive to Calingiri with great paddoks of grain crops, wheat, oats, barley and canola. Sometimes a paddock looked like canola, then when you drew nearer you found a paddock being spelled and full of Cape Weed. These weed paddocks often had large flocks of sheep grazing.

Apart from sheep, we saw beef cattle, horses and alpacas. Sometimes the alpacas were mixed with the sheep. Soon though, south of Bolgart the landscape started to change, more hilly and with rocky outcrops.

We stopped at Toodyay for morning tea and ended up having lunch there as well.

Helen had spotted a Bendigo Bank branch, the first for a long while. So we made a visit and Helen drew out some cash and made an appointment to return later and arrange internet banking. Meanwhile a wander around the town and a few groceries at IGA.
A very pretty town, set on the banks of the Avon River. We discovered that when the town was gazetted in 1860, it was named Newcastle after the then Duke of Newcastle. We couldn’t find out why the name was changed, there never was a Duke of Toodyay! When we eventually got back on the road, it followed the river for quite a while, making a very pleasant drive. Toodyay would certainly be on our list of places to return to.

Soon, we arrived in York, after negotiating the traffic through Northam. Here at Northam, we spotted our first traffic lights since Katherine. Maybe there was one in Broome?? Northam, although ninetysix kilometres from Perth, looked almost an outer suburb, too metropolitan for us and we didn’t stop.

York on the other hand appealed straight away, we had to drive through the main street to reach the caravan park, admiring all the old buildings. Here I think the park was a let down after the town, although the managers were very pleasant and helpful. I think it could do with some tlc. Some effort had been made on one side of the park, to gravel seal sites but weeds were growing through and taking over. The park was quite full though but as we were keen to find a place to rest up and watch the grand final, we booked in for two nights and were given a site on the edge of the park, almost an “overflow” site but it was level and had water and power. We’d been concerned to see three and four metre TV masts in town and were told that they were from the “old” system. As we set up and settled in, we found reception was great so we'll be able to relax tomorrow afternoon.

Our "overflow" site at York CP

Day 96—Saturday, 28th September (York)

Grand Final Day 2013! There’s a lot of “purple haze” around and why not, after nineteen years. Because of the two hour time difference, the footy starts at 12.30 here, so we thought a quick visit to town and a wander around and set off after breakfast.

York was established in 1831, making it WA’s oldest inland town and is famed for it’s colonial architecture. We walked the main street, admiring the fine old buildings. We noticed the York Motor Museum which is said to have 150 vintage, veteran and classic cars and race cars. Next door, the restored, National Trust Old Courts and Goal. We didn’t think we could do justice in the time available and agreed to come back in the morning. The Town Hall also drew our attention and being the Information Centre as well, we couldn’t pass it up. The building dates to 1911, the largest ever built in country WA and is Heritage listed.

York Town Hall

After a good look around, we continued down the street and visited the Old Mill, another listed site. The mill is a retail complex now, with an art gallery and a clothing boutique on the ground floor, convention and meeting facilities above, a bakery, a book shop (new and used) and a cafe, where we enjoyed a Devonshire Tea.

The Old Mill at York now a boutique complex

Very impressed with the solid timber hand basins in the Mill loo!

By now, it was time to make our way back to the caravan park for lunch and settle down for the grand final. Unhappily, it was obvious early that Freo had the first time nerves, missing four shots for goal in the first quarter that they’d have swallowed last week at home. So they would have gone home knowing the difference between a home final and a grand final at the MCG. Still a good game to watch though and most enjoyed. Roll on season 2014!

All over by 3.30pm here in WA so not to waste a minute, we went for another drive, to another lookout. Again, good distance views but again the town somewhat obscured. As a bonus, Helen found a native orchid!

So easy to miss these little Orchids

Day 97—Sunday, 29th September (York to Kokerbin Rock NP 125km)

We left York Caravan Park around 9.30am and drove into town, finding a caravan parking spot behind the shopping strip on the Avon River. Interestingly, we noticed this spot signed as a minimum twentyfour hour stop and a couple of vans had made use of it.

First up, we took a stroll over the old suspension bridge, which links the park on the town side of the river with houses on the opposite side, giving everyone easy access to this lovely riverside park.

Old Suspension Bridge over the Avon River

The Avon River at York

Then we walked into town and visited the York Car Museum and then the Police Courts and Goal. The car museum, established in 1979 is a privately owned by Peter Briggs and is recognised as one of the finest private collections. Full of vintage and veteran classic cars, some familiar others strange and unheard of, many with information boards, detailing their history and acquisition dates. There was also a display of veteran motorcycles and loads of other motoring memorabilia.

Veteran...

Vintage...

and Open Wheel Racers

Almost next door was the Courthouse Complex, dating back to 1852, beginning as a police station and lockup, with the courtroom added in 1859. The complex was steadily extended as the population grew, until in 1910, a police residence was added. This residence and another earlier residence behind the goal are now privately owned and occupied.

The cells were still in use up until 1981 when a new police station was built in town and the courtroom continued in use after the National Trust took over the complex in 1983. Another town that can go on the list of return visits, if only they do something with that caravan park.

The Old Courthouse

Courtroom from the Gallery

The Cell Block

Not much room to swing the cat!

So after a good couple of hours we went back to the van and had morning tea and got back on the highway about 12.45pm. We stopped for lunch at Quairading, then pushed on to Kokerbin Rock.

The Rock, is another of the granite outcrops that abound in the area and we arrived a little on the late side for a good site, the area nearest the toilet block, quite packed. The track runs all the way around the rock and we just followed, passing another campsite that looked pretty full and then came to a deserted car park with two spots for parking caravans. Although a long way from the long drop loo, it was quiet so we parked the van and got set up, taking the vans weight off the Patrol.

Kokerbin is the third largest granite monolith in Australia. Assuming Ayers Rock the biggest, we will have to research the second. Our first surprise was a well at the start of the walking trail, looking very good after maybe 100 years!

Dry stone walled well

Perhaps 100 years old

We climbed the rock, all the way to the cairn on the summit. Great views of the surrounding farms, mostly grain. Plenty of wildflowers up here, we even spotted an orchid. There was a Small Devil’s Marbles on the way up but we may have missed the sign, we were never sure if we were in fact looking at “the marbles”, there were that many little piles of them!

Good views from the summit

Another wave formation at Kokerbin Rock

I

Cairn at the summit

It was quite a rough and lengthly climb and we were both glad to get back down to the van, passing the old dry stone well again, on the way. There used to be a school near here but no sign of it now.

Day 98—Monday, 30th September (Kokerbin Rock to Kulin 138kms)

We’ve been off the main highways for a while now and today was no different. Soon after leaving Kokerbin Rock we turned off again at Shackleton, where we paused to check out the country’s smallest bank.

Bank West Shackleton, open every Friday 3.00-4.30pm

We are always pleasantly surprised at the country roads we’re travelling. This time we’re on the lookout for Underground Orchids but it seems we’re way too late for this one, if not all orchids.

As we arrived at Babaken, we stopped at the Hall where a large story board told the story of the Underground Orchids and it seems they flower much earlier, around May and June. While here we met Brian and Thelma, from Corrigen, who were able to tell us about this endangered little plant. They also suggested a spot on the road we were travelling, where we could look for other orchids. We did find the spot a bit later but there was no safe stopping with the van. They were clever enough to have warned us of this and so we had to keep going.

But, back on track, we continued on our way, stopping at Corrigen for lunch and a refuel. Today was a public holiday in WA and the roadhouse service station was the only place in town and everybody seemed to be there filling up, either fuel tanks or bellies and many doing both. On top of that, a tour bus full of Japanese tourists pulled up for a rest and drink break. What a bun fight!

Leaving Corrigan, on the highway, we passed the point mentioned above but were unable to stop and then, not much further on, we turned off the highway again towards Kulin. We arrived at Kulin and pulled into a large parking area by the local conveniences, big enough for road trains, never mind van and tug! There were toilets and showers but unhappily the showers were out of order due to vandalism. What a pity. There was also a notice suggesting an area behind the block could be used by “self contained” vehicles for 24hr stop over. One caravan was already on the park. So we thought, why not and joined them.

Later on, when we thought of the pub for dinner, we were disappointed to find the kitchen closed due to the long week-end. That’s the country for you. Back to the van and beans on toast. Even later, it got quite cold, we hope not a sign of weather to come.

Day 99—Tuesday, 1st October (Kulin to Hyden and Wave Rock 118kms)

Kulin is known as Macrocarpa country and has a wildflower walk, known as the Macrocarpa Trail. After breakfast we decided on a quick visit as it was only a couple of kilometres back up the highway and only a short walk of just over a kilometre. Although the Information Centre couldn’t advise us about parking for caravans at the site, we found a large turning circle well off the road at the start of the walk. You couldn’t see it from the highway but I managed to stop off the highway and walk in and have a look. Disappointing that the folk at the Information Centre didn’t know this.

Eucalyptus macrocarpa, is a mallee Eucalyptus that is native to the south-west . of WA and isnoted for its large, spectacular flowers. Well the Macrocarpa was well and truly finished flowering but I'd spotted one in our York walk about and couldn't resist. Isn't it truly spectacular in somebody's front yard.?

Eucalyptus macrocarpa in it's native environment

...nuts but no flowers

Although we only covered 118kms today, it could have been even less. Nearly twenty of that was due to taking the wrong road out of Kulin, I must have zigged when I should have zagged!

Helen had planned more back roads, taking the Tin Horse Highway. The Tin Horse Highway, is a clever community art project. Tin horses of all shapes and sizes, line the highway, between the town and the race track. The annual cup races are a big event on the local calendar.

This one not on the highway but in a front yard in town!

Arriving at Hyden, we passed through the township and checked in at the caravan park for a couple of nights, by which time lunch was calling. After the sandwiches and cuppa, we set out to explore the Rock. Wave Rock, is simply a feature on the side of Hyden Rock, a huge outcrop of granite, not unlike others we’ve visited, Kokerbin being the most recent. The rock has long been used as the towns water catchment, rainfall being channelled into a big dam on the side of Hyden Rock.

After walking along the base of Wave Rock and snapping some pix, very difficult, because there always seemed to be somebody getting in the way, having their photo taken in a surfing pose and trying to get as far up the wave as possible. Patience paid off and we soon got what we wanted, a photo of the rock!

Continuing along the base, there’s a set of steel stairs which climbs up to the top, passing as you do, the water storage dam. As mentioned, the walk around the top of Hyden Rock was not very different from others but we still cherished the hope of spotting some orchids but it was not to be. There’s always the views and up here was no different, great views of the surrounding area.

The Wave Rock at Hyden

The traditional view with tourists for height comparison

Town water supply on Hyden Rock

Walking the walk on the rock.

Day 100—Wednesday, 2nd October (Wave Rock)

Not a lot to report on this landmark day, #100. Helen got some laundry done while I got some typing done. Then we thought we’d take another walk around the base of the rock, this time in the other direction, to Hippo’s Yawn. On the way, we spotted lots of the little Dragon Lizard, scuttling away over the warm rocks, then pausing to give us the eye and their approval, marked by quick nods of the head. I just nodded back. Afterwards, I read that the nodding is a mating ritual and was quite relieved that they were not fooled by my nods.

Getting the nod from a Dragon Lizard

The walk along this part of the base forms a unique landscape as there’s no catchment walls and the rainwater runs off onto the surrounding bush. This makes a wide area of water loving plants and trees, mostly sheoaks which soak up water like a sponge. Lots of daisies and pigface, the latter enjoying the high salt content in the area which is ringed by salt pans. In some places, there were great cracks in the rock face and huge sections ready to slide down to the base. That may take another hundred years. We'll have a look then!

This slab has already moved down the slope

Arriving at the Hippo's Yawn, we had a short rest and took some photos before walking back to the caravan park.

The Hippo's Yawn

Pigface everywhere.

After sorting out the laundry and having lunch, we wandered across the street to the Information Centre and had a browse. The complex here includes a Wildflower Shop, a Game Park, a Lace Collection and a Toy Soldier Exhibit. So while Helen wandered through the Lace Collection, I took it easy in the cafe at the Wildflower Shop, being rudely awakened by Helen on her return. Just for that, I insisted she pay for the Devonshire Scones and Tea.

The Lace Collection dated back to 1650 and Helen was quite thrilled and impressed with the wedding dresses and other clothes, from a bygone time. Also in the collection, a 1922 Dodge, bought in 1948 for £15. Nor sure what that has to do with lace, just part of the display, which also included Jarah cabinets and a beautiful dress made by a farmers wife, with the string from Super bags. Not much worthwhile on the telly, so we watches a DVD after dinner, series three of Downton Abbey, which we’d missed earlier in the year.

Lace Gowns c1927