Karijini National Park to Mount Magnet

Day 83—Sunday, 15th September (Karijini National Park to Newman 213kms)

After breakfast, we hitched up, I don’t know why we unhitched, except there may have been a thought of visiting one of the other gorges, like Kalimna, only 25kms away. In the end though we decided to head for the highway.

Soon we were back on the Great Northern Highway and making good time towards Newman. Passing through the Opthalmia Range, we stopped at Mt Robinson rest area. At least I thought it was but the roads department really confused us with their signage. There were actually two rest areas, the first, where we stopped, just your common garden variety truck stop, meant for transports. The second a travellers stop, complete with shade and tables. No big deal, we have the van to sit in and we weren’t disturbing anyone and nobody disturbed us.

A Confused Stop at Mt Robinson, or was it Mt Governor?

On arrival at Newman, we went straight to the Visitors Centre, Where, we booked a Mt Whaleback Mine Tour for Monday morning and enquired about caravan parks. There are two in town and we were recommended the Newman Caravan Park which we were told is more like a caravan park than a fly in, fly out workers camp. So off we went and were soon set up under a nice shady tree. This park has made no pretence at grassy sites, all the sites were sealed with gravel topping and level, backing onto a grassy area. Helen was pleasantly surprised to discover that the laundry was free, as in no charge.

Our Rose Garden at Newman Caravan Park

However, we spent the afternoon relaxing under the awning and I think one of us even had a snooze. We discovered that the Swans had a win over Carlton yesterday but at great expense, losing Tippett and young Tom Mitchell in the first quarter. That will make it tough in the Preliminary against Fremantle next Saturday.

Day 84—Monday, 16th September (Newman)

We were at the Visitor Centre at 9.15am for our mine tour, dressed as asked in long trousers and long sleeved shirts. We were soon fitted up with flouro vest, hard hat and goggles, ready to go.

On the way to the lookout site in our bus, with about another thirty visitors, we were given a quick history of the mine and it’s operations, all of which rolled off the guides tongue as if she had done in hundreds of times, which she probably had.

Iron ore was first discovered in 1957 but mining only commenced ten years later in 1967 when the Commonwealth embargo on iron ore exports was lifted. It seems the government put the embargo in place during WWII, which as understandable but why it wasn’t lifted until 1967 is lost in the mists of time. The ore mined here is of a high grade and even the lower grade ore is treated to remove impurities and ends up an even higher grade.

Mt Whaleback open cut is 5.5kms long by 1.5kms wide and the reserves are calculated to last another sixty years, by which time the mine will be 100 years old!

The ore is railed to Port Hedland, 426kms away, by BHP’s private railway line, making it the longest privately owned railroad in the Southern Hemisphere. Ore was first shipped in 1969, ending up in Japan. Since then, more than one billion tonnes of ore has been railed out to the port.

On average, a train measures 3.75kms, consists of 212-336 ore cars and it take six locos to move it. Once under way, it takes three kilometres to come to a halt, understandable since each car holds about 125 tonnes of ore. BHP broke all records in 2001 when a train consisting of 682 cars, eight locos as assembled. This train was 7.3kms long. So endeth the lesson.

Once at the lookout point, we were given some time to have a look at some retired machinery displays, take photos of the mine works before more information was delivered. Most interesting were the statistics about the huge dump trucks we could see, scurrying about the area. Not Euclids but Wabco Ore Trucks, each capable of carrying 200 tonnes of ore or overburden.

Mt Whaleback Display

Mt Whaleback Open Cut Mine

Back in the bus for the return trip to the Visitors Centre, we did a quick circuit through the administration area, passing the medical centre and the fire and rescue department. We also passed a store area where tyres for the Wabco’s were on view, each worth about $40,000 and they only last a year! They carry a couple of million dollars worth in store. Back at the Visitors Centre, the morning was finished off with tea and scones.

Retired Wabco at the Visitors Centrte

Back to the park and after lunch and a bit of relaxation, we headed out of town to visit Ophthalmia Dam. The dam was constructed in 1981 by Mt Newman Mining on the Fortescue River just upstream of Ethel Gorge, about 16kms from Newman. The dam supplies water for an artificial recharge system into a nearby aquifer with a borefield for town and mining water supply. The dam was looking a bit low and we were able to drive out quite a way to the waters edge. We didn’t see any launch ramps but it would be easy to launch anywhere along the edge, plenty of space and a very gentle slope. We also managed a drive across the dam wall to the far side and get a lot closer to big flocks of water birds.

Ophthalmia Dam

Reflections on the Dam

Heading back into town, we decided on a drive up to Radiomast Hill, the town lookout. The sun was setting over the mine so photos were out but the town view was great for photos, with the sun behind us. Helen bumped into a family who came from Rhodesia and had been living in Umtali until Independence after which it became impossible to run a business, so they emigrated and now live in Broome.

Newman from Radiomast Hill

Day 85—Tuesday, 17th September (Newman to Meekatharra 426kms)

After breakfast, we made a quick dash up the Radiomast Hill again to see if we could get some better photos of the mine site. Good light but with everything being coated in red dust and throw in the distance, not all that great but a great view. In fact, the views at the lookout yesterday were better. So back to the park and hitch up and off again.

About 18kms south of Newman is the Tropic of Capricorn where we stopped for a photo opportunity. Easy to miss when traveling south as the signs on each side of the highway are one sided, facing south. Also, at this point, is a marker and plaque  commemorating the completion of the sealing of the highway between Newman and Meekatharra in December 1978, at the cost of twenty million dollars.

A Monument on the Tropic of Capricorn

Pushing on, we arrived at Kumarina Roadhouse and parked up for a cuppa. There’s roadtrain parking on both sides of the highway and we picked the less busy side, opposite the roadhouse.

As we wandered around the roadhouse, some of the trucks on the far side began to wind up engines and a couple of pilot vehicles began to move into position. Soon, a great motorcade was assembled, involving all the vehicles on both sides. We thought we’d picked a good moment to arrive because it was obvious that all traffic would have to move off the road to allow these monsters and their pilot drovers to pass. A short time later, much refreshed, we moved on.

Mustering the Convoy

Front Section of the Convoy

The Full Convoy on the Road

The Gascoyne River is reputed to be the longest in Western Australia at 865kms and has three branches, well named as Middle, North and South Branch. At the South Branch, there’s a unofficial rest area, where we decided to have lunch. I say unofficial because we didn’t notice any signs, just a track leading off and down to the river. There, we found an extensive area with tracks and campsites as well as the company of three or four other travellers. After finding a nice secluded spot with a turn around, we had our sandwiches. The turn around is an important feature in choosing a spot, it’s no fun backing up on a narrow track.

Seclusion on the Gascoyne River

Getting under way again, we had an uneventful drive to Meekkatharra where we booked into the Caravan Park around 4.00pm. Like many other parks in the Pilbara, as previously mentioned, this park seems to have devoted it’s amenities to accommodate the mining workers and their contractors. There were a few sites for travellers, none were very appealing. Later, chatting with a neighbour who pointed out a small cabin in one corner, saying the park can ask $700 per week, so why would they want to let you in for $25.00!! Nuff said!!

Parked for a Quick Exit at Meekatharra

Miners Cabins at Meekatharra

Day 86—Wednesday, 18th September (Meekatharra to Mount Magnet 199kms)

Before hitching up, I visited the nearby Coles Express and filled up. LPG was available and has been most places except between Katherine and Derby but the cost is still unattractive and I’m still reasonably happy with current consumption at 18/100kms.

After leaving the park we parked in the main street and visited a very interesting museum at the council offices, actually part of the town library. A great collection of  memorabilia from the area and a photographic collection kept us absorbed for a good hour. The town’s history is very much about mining, gold was first discovered in 1893, which was short lived but more gold was found in 1899. Gold was mined until as recently as 1980. The railway also featured and Meekatharra became the railhead at the end of the Canning Stock Route.

On the road again, we stopped in Cue for a walkabout and another photographic display at council chambers. The story here, is very similar to that at Meekatharra, gold being discovered about the same time. In fact by 1895, there were three stamp mills operating in town. A very noticeable feature in Cue is the stone architecture, particularly of the police station, which looked very new but in fact dates back to 1901. In contrast to where we’d just come from, Cue provides a large parking area for caravans and during our stay, half a dozen came and went, some travellers, like us, taking a wander up the street.

Police Station and Post Office, Cue WA

Murchison Club Hotel, Cue

Carrying on, we were soon set up at Mount Magnet Caravan Park. In complete contrast, this was indeed a park for travellers. I think there was only one or two permanents. Also provided was a well set up camp kitchen and nearer to our sit, an electric BBQ, which we made good use of later.

In the meantime, we went for a tour of the area, following a well marked map, supplied by the Information Centre. Again, gold mining featured here, with an open cut mine in operation. Part of the tour took us to a great lookout spot where the open cut could be seen. There were several other sites on the thirty kilometre self drive tour and my favourite was the last one. This was a favourite with the town too, often used for picnics. Did I mention the electric BBQ? Snags for dinner!

Late Afternoon at the Open Cut, Mount Magnet

Sunset on the Granites

Port Hedland to Karijini National Park

Day 81—Friday, 13th September (Port Hedland to Karijini National Park 339kms)

Hello, here we go again. We had an early morning wake up call, courtesy a shunting ore carrier engine. Soon though, we were well clear of this great construction zone.

We had a couple of changes of scenery, from flat, green vegetation, through ironstone outcrops, which reminded us of Devil’s Marble country in the NT. Lastly we began to spot wildflowers growing along the way. We also noted lots of roadkill but not wildlife, these were cattle. This highway is the major route for roadtrains full of ore, heading to the Port, also most supplies must be trucked up from the south. We met these great fifty metre trains regularly, travelling in both directions and they'd be very hard to stop, whether wildlife or cattle.

We made a stop at Auski Roadhouse which also has a caravan park and Cabins for travellers. Here we filled the tanks again so that when we deviate off the highway, into the National Park, we need not worry about low fuel in case we want to travel to some of the many gorges. We found a small patch of shade where we enjoyed our lunch.

Auski Roadhouse

Now we found the landscape changing again as the highway climbed into the Hamersley Range, moving up through 400m, then 500m, until by the time we reached the turn off to Karijini National Park we were at 700m. Still another 40kms to the Visitor Centre, with a quick stop at the park entry to pay park entry fees. At the visitor centre, camping fees were payable, at $12.00 per night. Although this was the highest park camping fee thus far, we both agreed that this park is the best run by quite a long way. By way of example, once fees were paid, we were directed to the Dales Campground where a “camp host” allocated a campsite taking van size into account and whether a generator was to be used. So we ended up with a lovely shady site, easily accessed with our van and got the generator out.

It may have been the altitude but we soon noticed the drop in temperature when the sun went down, in fact there was a noticeably lower temperature when we arrived, so the generator as not needed for cooling.

Campsite at Karijini National Park

More of concern was the state of our auxiliary battery in the Patrol. We knew before starting off in June, that this battery was a bit long in the tooth but it received a clean bill of health when the car was serviced. However, signs of stress have been showing recently and it’s been working hard with the car fridge set to freeze, which causes the compressor to run more than normal.

So the generator did get used and the battery charger plugged in. After a 90 minute charge, the gauge showed full charge. Only an hour later, the car fridge was displaying a low voltage error, meaning the battery’s not holding charge. Not a problem during the day, with the solar panels attached but a big problem at night. Looks like a new battery.

Day 82—Saturday, 14th September (Karijini National Park)

We had a pretty quiet night, there’s no TV or radio here and of course Telstra went missing long ago. Normally this wouldn’t bother us but it’s footy finals! Bugger!

The Karijini Park, is cleft by maybe a half dozen gorges but we are camped within a few hundred metres from Dales Gorge. The others entail as much as a 90kms round trip and not on our agenda this time round.

So we set off for Dales Gorge, which from the map provided, is a couple of kilometres long on the Fortesque River. The far end seems to end in a divide, forming a short gorge which ends abruptly after a couple of hundred metres. There are  walking trails. one at the bottom of the gorge and one along the top and we chose the top walk.

The Fern Pool from the Rim of Dales Gorge

North Rim of Dales Gorge

First though, we climbed down to the base to visit the Fortescue Falls. This was, at times, quite a difficult scramble but very worthwhile. First stop was the Fern Pool where some young people were having a cooling swim then pushing on up the gorge we came to the falls. At this time of year, there’s not a lot of water in the River but we found  it very pretty and relaxing. One can only imagine what the falls would look like in the wet season and there were plenty of clues in clumps of debris lodged in trees at better the head height.

Survival on the River Bed (the tree)

Fortescue Falls, Just a Trickle Now

Returning back to the Fern Pool, the decision to be made was whether to stay in the 

gorge or make the climb back up to the rim. We climbed! Actually we’d been tipped off that the other end was very steep.

Back at Fern Pool

Taking a Breather Before the Climb

Ancient Layers

A Bit of Help on the Way Out

The Right Arm off into the Distance

The walk along the rim was full of spectacular views, with a lookout point where the gorge divided, with the main arm disappearing into the distance. The rim trail followed the shorter arm and ended in a beautiful pool called, naturally, Circular Pool. A long way below, there were lots of swimmers but not manty climbers. As we watched, some started back along the floor of the gorge to the other end. This sort of justified our earlier choice. Having made it to the Circular Pool end, we now had to get back to camp and took the easy way out, using the roadway, linking the two ends.

The Left Arm Heading For.....

....The Circular Pool

Broome to Port Hedland via Eighty Mile Beach

Day 75—Saturday, 7th September (Broome to Stanley Rest Area 211kms)

Today being election day and hopefully, change of government day we again made an unhurried departure. We’d decided that instead of driving all the way to Eighty Mile Beach, we’d stop for a free camp at the Stanley Rest Area. So, quite a short drive and uneventful, arriving about noon. We found a very large area with a sealed circular drive, shelters with table and benches dotted around the centre and a couple of toilet blocks. The area may have originally been part of Nita Downs Station, which is now only a ruin, because we found large concrete slabs, one in the centre, big enough for several sheds. We had arrived early and had the pick of the area and chose another smaller concrete slab with a nice shady tree in one corner, which the Patrol fitted under. In the end, it didn’t get much busier, with a couple of tenters arriving just before sundown, followed by a motorhome and finally another caravan.

Soon we were very comfortable and sitting in the shade under the awning, enjoying lunch, followed by a lazy afternoon of peace and quiet. We had been surprised to find the rest area so quiet, with only two other sets of campers. Maybe, being election day, campers wanted to be in touch and there was zero mobile reception here, ditto television. We did have radio reception and enjoyed listening to Freemantle overcome the odds down at Geelong. After that match, ABC switched to the tally room and we couldn’t follow the other elimination final, between Port Adelaide and Collingwood. It was quite strange, listening to the election results and knowing the outcome, before the polls had even closed here in WA!

On Our Concrete Pad at Stanley Rest Area

Soon though it was time for dinner and out came the Baby Q and the boerevors. Helen made up a fresh salad and we enjoyed it all under the awning. Just a lazy day and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

I should explain the boerevors. This is a South African sausage which, over there, is made from game, mostly Sprinbok. As Perth has a large South African population, local smallgoods makers have met a demand and although made ith beef, all the spices are there and it does taste good. We’ve seen this WA brand at home, in Coles at Pakenham but not regularly, whereas in WA we’ve seen it in Coles each visit. Problem is, the lack of Coles stores, I think I’ve mentioned this previously.

Day 76—Sunday, 8th September (Stanley to Eighty Mile Beach 163kms)

Because of our early stop yesterday, there remained only another short drive today, to the beach. We stopped for fuel at Sandfire Roadhouse and a stroll around. They had a comprhensive display on the effects of the 2009 cyclone that centred on the area, causing huge damages. The cyclone also affected Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park with much damage there too.

Sandfire Roadhouse

So we were soon settled on a nice site at Eighty Mile Beach, after a relatively smooth 10kms of gravel. We were given a site near the beachfront, for a three night stay and got set up with awning and shade walls and the mat which we’d not used since the bush fire at Kununurra. All very comfortable. It was noticable how short the side shade wall was, first time used since the chassis was raised. But it gave us shade from the hot afternoon sun. This park was as busy as any since Katherine! Lots of Westies come up here for the fishing, staying weeks. As long as you come prepared, theirs not much to spend money on. The shop bakes bread daily and pies too and stocks the usual goods for it's type and also a good range of fishing gear!

Our First Green Grass for a while

Day 77—Monday, 9th September (Eighty Mile Beach)

There’s not a lot to do here but vege out, unless you’re a fisherman. The parade down to the beach commenced each morning around 10.30am, lasting until high tide approached and fish were caught!

Fishing Frenzy on Eighty Mile Beach

Well, there is one other activity, shell collecting. We have never seen a beach anywhere with so much shell, miles and miles and at low tide, close to a mile out as well. So we veged out. A bit of reading, a bit of walking on the beach a bit of snoozing, all good stuff. I think yours truly did most of the snoozing.

A Shell Fossicker at Sundown

Another Ocean Sunset, Something you Could Never get Tired of Watching

It’s interesting to note that, we have covered just on 10,000kms so far and we’re still about 1600kms north of Perth plus the breadth of the continent from home. It’s beginning to dawn on us just the same, that we’re more or less on the way home. When we leave this great spot on Wednesday morning, heading for Port Hedland, we’ll then move inland through Newman and on down through “wildflower country” and eventually through Kalgoorlie and on to the Nullarbor. This will leave plenty of WA for visiting on a future trip.

Day 78—Tuesday, 10th September (Eighty Mile Beach)

More of the same, just enjoying the rest. we have radio and TV reception and very irritating Telstra, which seems to get better in the evening but even then is very flakey. We’ve learned that better reception is to be found, back towards the park entrance in a bit of a hill, so might check that out later.

A Farewell, Backward Look at Eighty Mile Beach

Day 79—Wednesday, 11th September (80 Mile Beach to Port Hedland 252kms)

All good things come to an end, so they say and we have to move on. The only thing missing here, is mobile phone reception. Mobile reception equals internet connection, equals contact with loved ones and although during our current travel, we've had periods of "blackout", it's only been for a couple of days. Here, we've met folks who were here for five to seven weeks. Couldn't do that!

Anyway, we were off by 9.00am, taking it slowly over the 10kms of gravel road to the highway.

We stopped for morning tea at Pardoo Roadhouse, noticing as we progressed a gradual change in the country, still very dry as always at this time but there seemed to be more greenery. Not what you'd call feed if you come from South Gippsland but greener. Even so, I can't remember seeing any stock.

We passed another of those large rest areas which are designated 24hrs stops, this one on the De Grey River, there was even water in the river! we would love to have stopped here, we'd have had plenty of company as already at midday, there were half a dozen or more rigs. I'm not sure why we didn't stop!

Shortly, we had arrived and booked in to the Black Rock Caravan Park in South Hedland. South Hedland grew as a result of lack of space in Port Hedland to house the growing population. We discovered that Port Hedland has a Big4 park but only after the fact. This park really is not a caravan park in the sense of travelling caravaners but in fact a township for workers, catering for the fly-in, fly-out section of the workforce. It seems that the whole Pilbara area is populated by workers in fluoro shirts, driving utes with orange  lights on the roof! Many of them living in cabins or permanent vans or even in their own caravans in the park.

Anyway, here we are and after lunch, we went for a drive into South Hedland and did some grocery shopping at Coles. After that and a short drive around, we returned to the van and dinner. Tomorrow we will explore the port.

Our $44.00 Patch of Red Dirt at Black Rock

Day 80—Thursaday, 12th September (Port Hedland)

Did I mention, it's getting cooler? Today's top temp forecast is 29, compared to 39 where we've come from in Broome and Kununurra. Just thought I'd throw that in.

Soon we were heading into Port Hedland. No kidding, this place is like one gigantic construction site. Road works and site preparation work going on all around. So much for the decline in mining.

First call, down to Marapikurrinya Park, otherwise known as Finucane lookout. The lookout, overlooks the BHP ore loading berths and we were able to watch as one ship was being loaded, while another, obviously loaded, waited for the tide. We were soon to learn how important tides were in the history of the port.
We also counted a dozen or more carriers waiting for port entry.

Cape Odyssey Being Loaded

A Fully Loaded London Courage Waits For High Tide

This part of what might be called a twin township, Port Hedland, looked and felt very commercial. All the big banks were represented here on Wedge Street. So we kept compartmentalising the two into Port the commercial centre and South, the retail centre.

Next we visited the museum, volunteer run by the local Historical Society. Here we enjoyed a good browse through the exhibits and some very interesting information from Julie, who just happened to be the VP of the Historical Society. Julie also shot holes in our twin city theory. Port Headland has all the retail outlets you'd expect and existed before South Hedland came into existence in the late sixties. Just like the other small museums, visited in our travels, this one was full of interesting facts about the town and it's history.

There as also an open air museum on transport, with exhibits of old machinery used in the town's early days. Of interest, were bulldozers made out of WWII surplus tanks and other equipment bought from the Snowy Authority when they'd outlived their usefulness on that project.

Next we visited a couple of lookouts and Point Cooke. It was at Point Cooke that we discovered the Big4 park and took a drive through to check it out. Yep, wrong park again. Meanwhile the lookouts gave us a great view of the sea lane into the port and we watched as a couple of tugs shepherded a great, low in the water, fully loaded ore carrier, out of the harbour, on its way to who knows where.

An Ore Carrier on the Way Out

While Many Wait Port Entry

On the way back to the van, we found a huge retail shopping centre, this one complete with Woolworths and Harvey Norman stores. we took advantage of the Woolworth/Caltex servo outside to fill up for next stage of the journey southwards. Then it was back to Black Rock for dinner, some telly and then bed.

Fitzroy Crossing to Broome

Day 70—Monday, 2nd September (Fitzroy Crossing to Derby 258km)

Heading west again this morning, for Derby. We’re passing through more and more burned country as we go. Not sure if this is deliberately burned or otherwise but it’s interesting to note, from time to time, signs urging care with fire and that we prefer our lizards frilled to grilled!

Burnt Country

We stopped for morning tea at the Boab Rest Area, with it’s centre piece, the biggest Boab we’ve seen so far. Still not as big as the African ones though!

Boab Tree Rest Area

Arriving in Derby about midday, Helen made a beeline for the laundry while I got set up. While the washing was getting done, we had lunch and then over to the laundry to hang it all out.

A drive down to the Wharf which until 5.00pm you can drive around and we did. Lots of lines being dangled in the tide but nobody catching anything. Back into town and a call at the ANZ hole in the wall for some funds, then to the Windmill Cafe to order fish n chips for a 6.30pm pick up.

Derby Wharf and Loading Conveyor

With a couple of hours to spare until dinner time, we made a trip out to the Boab Prison Tree and The Long Trough.

The Derby Prison Boab Tree

On the way, we spotted a sign to the Derby Wetlands and decided to leave that for tomorrow. Back into town, we stopped off at Woolworths for a bottle of wine to go with the fish n chips. As it turned out, the wine was the best part of dinner! The Windmill had been recommended by the park manager but I think fish n chips is better from a shop specialising in the meal, rather than a place where it’s on a long list of menu items.

Day 71—Tuesday, 3rd September (Derby)

After breakfast, we drove down to the Information Centre and collected the key for the Wharfinger Museum, which turned out to be well worth the gold coin donation. Heaps of information on the history of the town and wider area, all looked after by volunteers, we assumed from the local Historical Society. What great reading all this would make in a book!

After the museum, we took another quick drive down to the wharf but no action here and the tide well out but not as far as we were later to see. So we thought we’d follow up on the wetlands we’d noticed last evening. Turns out to be a man made wetland, part of the water reclamation system. After going through the ponds system, the water is fed into a small lagoon system, which the ducks enjoyed, there were hundreds of them and water hens too! The lagoon provided great cover for the birdlife, with great thickets of reeds and rushes and there were a couple of spots where benches were provided for birdwatchers. They need to think about hides though because by the time you get your backside on a bench, all the birds had scattered.

The Water Board Lagoon

Back at the ponds, there were Ibis and kites and lots more ducks. On the way back to the caravan park, we stopped off at the old Derby Goal, a very depressing story of terrible conditions for prisoners, mostly Aboriginal.

After lunch, we just rested until just before 5.00pm when we again drove down to the wharf to enjoy the sunset, then back to the park for dinner and bed.

Derby Sunset on King Sound

Day 72—Wednesday, 4th September (Derby to Broome 220kms)

A beautiful clear sunny sky and after a quick dash down to the servo for a diesel top up, we managed to get away by 9.00am. The highway backtracks some 40kms to rejoin the Great Northern Highway at Roebuck Plains Roadhouse. The highway is in very good condition and we may have had a slight tail wind, the Patrol just seemed to cruise without much pedal pressure. A feature on this stretch of the highway, were the single lane crossings over the Fitzroy River at Willare and Minnie Creek, closer to Broome.

The Single Lane Bridge Over the Fitzroy River

We made the journey non-stop, arriving just after noon and checking into the Broome Caravan Park, which we had rung earlier and booked. The parks are nor all that busy as the season approaches the end, in fact this particular park was very nearly empty.

Broome Caravan Park

Once lunch was taken, we decided to visit the Broome Hospital as it’s now over two months since my last blood test and venesection. At the hospital emergency department, we were directed to PathWest and soon had the blood taken. Results would be available in about three hours but we said we’d return in the morning.

With that little bit of housekeeping done, we went back into town to locate the AEO and do our civic duty by voting. This was a very easy, painless exercise, we even had a bloke outside the office, handing out how to vote cards. Next we found Coles and a chemist, before taking a walk around chinatown.

Day 73—Thuraday, 5th September (Broome)

As soon as breakfast was taken and we’d tidied up, we were off into town and the hospital for test results. This too was a painless exercise, only requiring ID proof to receive a print out. This though, turned out to be an interim report as the results have to go through Haematology in Perth before a final report will be available. In the meanwhile, I’ve phoned the rooms of my Specialist at LaTrobe, who’ll receive a copy of reports. Hopefully, I’ll hear from him on the next step. However, from my own reading, my red cell count seems to be under control, so maybe no bleeding will be needed. We then made a visit to another mall shopping centre, where we were both able to buy new shorts and Helen got her hair cut,

Then back to the park, for lunch and a quiet afternoon.

We’d seen a beaut sunset at Derby but everybody raves about sunset on Cable beach, so we decided to head out to Gantheaume Point and the lighthouse and then onto the beach for the sunset. The Point here has very obviously been shaped by the sea and again we were reminded of the power of water to shape the landscape.

As I was taking a photo of the lighthouse, I noticed movement on one of the platforms under the light. An eagle had just landed and on a closer look, I could see a huge nest, about two or three meters wide. Still not sure whether this was an Osprey or a Sea Eagle. We spent a few minutes watching but the bird didn’t enter the nest, just perched and preened. After a while, the eagle/osprey flew off and we returned to the Patrol, ready to head down to the beach. While we were getting settled, we noticed the bird returning but this time, settling on the lower platform which contained a much smaller nest. Again, the bird din’t go near the nest, just perched above it, opening and waving its wings like a Cormorant. Wet wings make mw think Sea Eagle. Or does a Osprey fish too?

Not far from the lighthouse car park, we found a track down onto the beach, where we found lots of others with the same idea, dozens of, mostly 4WD’s parked in expectation, some complete with chairs and wine coolers. There was still half an hour until sunset, so we decided to take a walk down to the waters edge and paddle in the Indian Ocean.

By now, the sun was dropping towards the horizon quickly so we moved back to the Patrol and get ready to take a few snaps of our first sunset on the Indian Ocean. After waiting for the event, it all happens very quickly and soon many of the cars on the beach started to move off. We were not far behind and were soon back at the van where dinner was the next highlight of the day.

Day 74—Friday, 6th September (Broome)

Nice and early this morning, Dr Scarletthe returned my call. Quite happy with test results and when I told him we’d be home early to mid October, he thought any further treatment could wait until then. So that’s out of the way, no need to bother the locals with a bloodletting!

After breakfast, we drove down to the port, which took us out past the Gantheaume Point. We had to negotiate some serious roadworks on the way, looked like grading work in preparation for the wet.

Down at the port, we first went to the public area where the locals launch their boats. There were lots of trailers lying about so there must have been lots of boats out, not that we could tell, the horizon was empty. We noticed an extra warning about entering the water, a salt water crocodile had been sighted earlier in the week. Nice place though.

We drove back to the wharf and found a public car park next to the customs house and went for a walk down the wharf, which has a public access walkway running the length of the pier. There was a ship docked at the one of the berths and some traffic to and fro along the roadway above us but nothing of any great excitement. 

We guess the port, like others in the north, is suffering from the slow down in live cattle exports. We had passed cattle yards on the way into the port but only a handful of cattle penned.

Broome Pier

The walkway was pretty busy though, there must have been a dozen or more hopeful anglers drowning baits from the railings but we didn’t witness any catches.

Our next stop was at the museum, this one too, run by volunteers from the local Historical Society and very well set up. Maybe the difference here compared to Derby is the $5.00 per head entry fee. A society member was on hand to take our money and give us a run down on the exhibits. Major exhibits were on the pearling industry and the Japanese bombing raids of WWII.

After driving back to the caravan park and having lunch, we decided on a lazy afternoon before driving back into town for a Coles visit for a few groceries. This actually ended up being a major buy up. Then out to the Woolies petrol station and a fill up of diesel.

On the way to Coles, we took a small detour to the resort end of Cable Beach and took a drive down the north end to watch the camels come and go, mostly they should go, not very nice animals I think.

Resort Cable Beach

Giving Way to the Camel Train

Later, we watched as Hawthorn did a number on the Swans and were quite thankful when the signal dropped out, halfway through the last quarter. I think Sydney paid the price for including two or three underdone players, Hannebery and Jetta looked lost. Hopefully though the run will benefit them and they can deliver next week.